Archives

Me talk pretty

May 1, 2011

As I travel, I tend to make the (usually wrong) assumption that all white people speak English.

That’s precisely how I found myself tangled in an awkward moment with a French woman on the bus. I blurted out a few questions, trying to engage her in conversation. She shrugged and smiled.

She only knew a few English words. I speak high school preschool French. We didn’t have much to say beyond hello. I dove deep into my brain for every possible French thing I could muster and emerged with “Voulez-vous coucher avec moi ce soir?” and the les poissons song from “The Little Mermaid,” neither of which were appropriate.

There was no way to continue this conversation. Instead I attempted to bury my head in a Kindle, which is très difficile.

After we arrived in Bangkok and unloaded our luggage, the woman approached me.

GIGI (I am making up this name): Please. I do not speak English. Guesthouse?

ME: I no stay guesthouse.

GIGI: Merci. I stay with you.

And suddenly, we were crammed into a tuk-tuk together.

Normally I wouldn’t mind being accompanied by a fellow traveler, but I wasn’t heading to a hostel or guesthouse. I had a friend from home meeting me in Bangkok, and we reserved a nice hotel for a few nights. I knew this place was beyond the typical backpacker budget, but I had no clue how to express that to my new French friend.

Instead we had a patchwork of pleasantries, sewn together with scrappy bits of each language.

GIGI: Hmmm. Where do you from?

ME: America. How long do you travel?

GIGI: Vietnam. (Long pause.) My English is unhappy.

ME: My French is very sick.

And then because I couldn’t think of anything else to say, I busted out the only other phrase I know en Francais.

ME: I would like to buy some socks today.

She nodded.

GIGI: D’accord.

When we arrived at the hotel, Gigi nodded her approval. It was slick and fancy, with a modern lounge that frightens you into standing up and keeping your hands to yourself. The walls were brushed metal and spotless glass. The chairs were somehow lit from within. A bellboy handed me a blue cocktail.

The receptionist asked if I needed an additional bed in my room to accommodate Gigi, and the French lady looked at me expectantly. As much as I wanted to help her out, it wasn’t my place. I would hate for my friend to fly halfway around the world, walk into her hotel room and find a stranger there — especially since my friend booked the room.

I did my best to explain.

ME: Mi amiga — er, mon ami is coming ici.

GIGI: (French words, French words, French words).

ME: I’m sorry.

GIGI: Oui. No good. I go.

Before she left, I held out my blue cocktail. That gesture needed no translation. She downed it with a grin, then disappeared into the elevator.

 

 

Two awesomely named Thai restaurants

April 30, 2011

These signs made me laugh.

I am a 12-year-old boy, obviously.

Located at the intersection of Darn and Dammit.

 

I’ll have the pu-pu platter.

 

 

Elephant in the room

April 20, 2011

“Non. Too sad,” said Random French Dude, dismissing me with a wave of his hand.

I was in a ramshackle outdoor bar in Pai, Thailand, having drinks with some stray travelers. They asked about my weeklong experience volunteering with elephants.

“Were these animals sick? Injured?” Random French Dude asked.

“Yes, most of them have had difficult lives,” I said. “Some of them still have injuries from abuse. But they’re happy now. The park is a sanctuary.”

“Non. I do not like that kind of thing,” he said, scowling. “I like happy things only.”

“Oui,” his friend nodded, then lit the end of a Marlboro.

Random French Dude proceeded to tell me about his recent two-hour elephant trek, in which a metal seat was strapped to an animal’s back, carving out deep, raw divots in its hide. A guide led the creature by hammering a metal hook into its neck.

Oh, yes. That sounds sooo happy.

As a volunteer, I spent a week at Elephant Nature Park, located about an hour outside of Chiang Mai. Our group of 30-some volunteers was split into smaller clusters that rotated chores throughout the week.

Sometimes we chopped corn, which is a delicious elephant snack. Other times we scrubbed bathtubs full of produce, since the pesticides on watermelon rind and squash skin could hurt delicate elephant tummies.

Elephant kitchen. And you thought I ate a lot.

 

We shoveled elephant dung, we dug mud pits, we prepared squishy food for elephants with bad teeth, we even patched the potholed road that leads to the sanctuary. Twice a day we helped feed the gentle giants, and every afternoon we took them into the river for a bath.

Rub-a-dub.

 

Overall, it was a memorable and magical experience.

What impressed me most about Elephant Nature Park is that they never solicited donations for themselves. Instead, they taught visitors and volunteers about the issues plaguing Asian elephants, they encouraged us to tell others, and they asked us to get involved in whatever way possible. Their message wasn’t focused on the park — it was all about the animals.

Happy mudpit elephants.

 

The huge problem for elephants began when the Thai government banned logging in the 1990s, putting thousands of elephants out of work. Likewise, elephant mahouts (handlers) had few options. They could abandon their animals, sell them to trekking companies or panhandle with the elephants on street corners.

So an out-of-work elephant, begging for a tiny baggie of fruit, is not an uncommon sight on the streets of Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Though the practice is technically illegal, the police often turn a blind eye. Meanwhile, the elephants are stressed and agitated from the traffic, lights, congestion and noise of the cities. They rock back and forth, a sign of distress.

The elephants lucky enough to get work with a trekking company face grueling labor. They often don’t receive the proper food or veterinary care. When injured, they aren’t allowed enough time to heal. Their backs are blistered and wounded from metal chairs, their spines compromised by heavy loads, their skin wounded from beatings with metal hooks.

Weepy eye.

 

The elephants also go through a brutal taming process before they interact with humans. This involves squeezing a young elephant into a small cage and keeping the animal chained for weeks at a time, poking it with sharp objects and beating it with sticks. After enough abuse, the spirit is effectively broken. In the end, the elephant is dominated.

This elephant stepped on a landmine.

 

Compounding these issues is the fact that elephant numbers are dwindling. At the start of the 20th Century there were 100,000 elephants in Thailand. Now there are about 3,000.

As Random French Dude says, too sad.

As I say, screw that.

Real change can only be achieved by recognizing injustice and refusing to close your eyes. It means purposely looking at the sadness in the world and making a conscious effort to help.

The good thing is that Elephant Nature Park didn’t turn away. They are a haven for glorious creatures who have already lived difficult lives. Their goal is not only to take in wounded animals, but to eradicate the cycle of abuse and exploitation. Their guiding philosophy is kindness.

Roam if you want to. And if you’re a big freaking elephant.

 

Nom nom nom.

 

“Muffy, shall I make another pitcher of mimosas?”

 

Volunteering there was worthwhile not just because I helped smooth over ugliness. Rather, I witnessed the wild beauty of freedom — and that’s something extraordinary. Not sad.

Nobody puts baby (elephant) in a corner.

 

Interested in visiting or volunteering with Elephant Nature Park? Get more info over here. Visitors can make day trips or stay overnight for up to eight days. Volunteers can stay for many weeks. I paid nearly $400 to volunteer for one week, and that included accommodation and three delicious (mostly vegan!) buffet meals per day.

Kissy kissy.

 

I also got to kiss elephants every day, which is priceless.

A self-portrait with an elephant is impossible.

 

 

Water world

April 17, 2011

Songkran is a funny beast. The Thai new year festival is a celebration of cleansing and rebirth, marked by water throwing.

The tourism bureau would have you believe it is something adorable, like this.

Sprinkle sprinkle.

 

But this is closer to reality.

IN YO FACE!

 

People line the streets with buckets and hoses, armed with water guns. Every passerby is a target, especially the people actively trying to stay dry. It’s loads of fun — as long as you’re the person throwing water. When you’re not, it can be fairly miserable.

This tradition began with the cleansing of the Buddha statues, which are washed in honor of the new year. That water was then captured and used to bless elders and family members. The holiday has evolved into the world’s largest water fight, complete with wet T-shirt contests, shucking buckets of water into open vehicles and surprising strangers with a fistful of ice in the face.

There is no escaping this festival. I spent several hours yesterday tossing buckets at the unfortunate souls who tried to sneak past Hopf Coffee House in Chiang Mai. When I was done for the day, soggier than the last cornflake in a cereal bowl, I headed home on the back of a scooter. That’s when karma took a big chunk out of my ass, and I was stopped at a traffic light for what felt like hours. I was pelted from all sides with warm water, ice water, probably even a beer or two. I also had the pleasure of a garden hose down my pants.

This morning I snuck over to the ATM, where I got treated to a Super Soaker in the back while I was removing cash. As I was paying for a squirt gun and Diet Coke at the 7-11, the employee was packing his own heat — he shot me in the neck with warm moat water. During a coffee run, I was ambushed by a child hiding behind a potted plant. And I was cornered in a dark alley by 40 tiny kids with water balloons.

I seriously haven’t been dry for more than a few hours during the past three days.

While this is the biggest and most popular festival in Thailand, it’s also the most unpopular festival for my camera. I’ve been wrapping my poor little Lumix in plastic bags, sealed inside of Ziplocs, contained inside waterproof bags, and somehow my stuff is still getting wet. (I took a couple videos, but they don’t do Songkran justice.)

So sadly, I don’t have too many images to share. Instead I have to rely on the kindness of friends, like the good folks over at JDMesh, who took this awesome photo … while dumping a bucket of water on my head.

On the plus side, this is the cleanest I’ve been on this whole trip.

 

One of my favorite Songkran moments happened yesterday when some friends and I posed in the street for a seriously waterlogged photo. The guy snapping the picture was taking a long time, and we thought he couldn’t figure out the camera. Turns out he was waiting for the people across the street to run over with buckets. Sneak attack!

D’oh.

 

 

Call of the wild

April 17, 2011

If there’s anything tigers do well, it’s making delicious cornflakes.

They also happen to be champion sleepers, counting sheep and sawing logs for nearly 16 hours a day. And so it was on my visit to Tiger Kingdom in Chiang Mai.

Go get ’em, tiger!

 

The good news is that I’m part cat, so I was able to snooze with them.

Like goose down, but with teeth.

 

He’s a tiger. I’m a cougar. It works.

 

My visit included some time with the big guys.

What’s new, pussycat?

 

The medium tigers.

Easy, tiger.

 

Jungle fever.

 

And the babies.

Five-month old.

 

His favorite movie is “The Lion King.”

 

Along the way, I got closer to tigers than I ever expected. Probably a lot closer than humans should.

This is gonna be hilarious.

 

Don’t try this at home.

 

Tigers just want some finger food.

 

Once again, I am in awe of nature and in love with the beauty that exists in our world.

I almost wore leopard print today. Can you imagine the fashion faux pas?

 

Zzzzz.

 

Gorgeous. And I’m not talking about me.

 

A note about Tiger Kingdom: I was highly skeptical about visiting this place. I’d heard about other tiger parks where the tigers are drugged or abused to the point of total submission for tourists. I did a lot of research before I decided to give Tiger Kingdom my money, including asking the opinion of workers at animal sanctuaries I trust. The unanimous response was that I should go and decide for myself.

After my visit, I am much more comfortable with Tiger Kingdom and what they do. I do not think the tigers are drugged — I was happy to see they were not declawed either — but they are definitely not wild tigers. These animals were born into captivity and are quite used to human interaction. When the tigers are too big (age two), visitors are no longer allowed to get inside the cage.

After the tigers reach adulthood, many of them stay at Tiger Kingdom for conservation studies, though some are sent to zoo programs. I have mixed feelings about this. I realize that done well, zoos can provide incredible educational opportunities about our environment. I also know that there are few options for tigers who have been born into captivity — they obviously cannot be released into the wild. On the other hand, it’s heartbreaking that a majestic creature will spend the entirety of his/her life behind bars.

As much as I enjoyed my visit, I probably would not visit Tiger Kingdom again. While I don’t think the animals are mistreated, I do feel guilty for using them for my personal entertainment. My biggest problem is that I love animals so much, I just want to be close to them — and sometimes I forget how that isn’t the best choice for the creatures I want to protect. Maybe you can be a better person than I was.

It’s a complicated issue, and visiting Tiger Kingdom is a decision that everybody will have to make for themselves. If you are interested in visiting Tiger Kingdom, this fantastic blog post can give you more information about prices and what to expect.