Browsing Category

Hiking

My dad died, and then I climbed a volcano and adopted a dog

March 16, 2024

My dad died three months ago. I haven’t found the words to write about it, and I don’t know if I ever will. Some painful things surrounded his death; I’m having trouble sorting through that. 

So here are some things that are not entirely related to that loss but not entirely unrelated either. 

• I began attending a Death Cafe a few months before my dad died. It’s a place where you can go to talk openly and honestly about death, a topic that’s often taboo. I knew my dad’s life was coming to an end — although I didn’t expect it to happen as quickly as it did — and I wanted to approach it from a healthier place than when my mom died.

I told the group about a picture book my son has, in which a fox is hit by a car and runs into the woods to die, the animal’s body then feeding the earth and other creatures. In this book, death is not an ending but a continuation. It’s a vital part of life.

• Shortly after my father’s death, I climbed Acatenango, a dormant volcano in Guatemala that is joined with Fuego, an active volcano.

My family camped there overnight and sat around a fire as the earth shook, nearby Fuego belching black smoke and fire into the air. Sometimes a rain of ash followed, soft and fine as talcum powder. Other eruptions covered us in soot. I relished that violence, the topsy-turviness of it. Everything seemed upside-down, the black rocks falling from the sky. 

Meanwhile, my son saw hearts in the smoke.

• I used to have dreams that my teeth were falling out. Dream interpretation books told me this symbolizes a recent loss or transition. The night I returned from Guatemala, it actually happened in real life. One of my molars crumbled on New Year’s Eve. It was a loss I couldn’t fathom until it happened, a pain I thought I somehow deserved. 

• We went to the animal shelter to meet a dog named Milo, but another dog, a mellow, slow-eyed puppy, caught our attention instead. I fell for her immediately. “Let’s wait and think about it,” said my 9-year-old. 

That night, my son confessed he was still bereft over the loss of grandpa, and he didn’t want to risk loving anything else that might die. I explained that’s what love is. It’s the everyday bravery of making your heart tender. It’s knowing that you’ll feel pain and loving anyway. 

The next day we adopted the dog.

• I had a massage recently and sobbed on the table. The therapist was afraid she had hurt me, but the hurt was already there. She only released it.

Chasing rest and relaxation in Zanzibar

September 2, 2023

I couldn’t go all the way to Tanzania without making a side trip to Zanzibar, an archipelago boasting white sugar-sand beaches, lush forests, and turquoise water.

So after I summited Mount Kilimanjaro, I made the quick hop from mainland Arusha to Unguja Island, Zanzibar, a zippy flight that took about 90 minutes.

Zanzibar instantly did something to me. You know the sensation of wearing tightly tied hiking boots for a long time — and them taking them off? The loosened laces, the heaviness falling away, the blood rushing back. That’s what landing in Zanzibar felt like. An unbinding.

On arrival

I wasn’t interested in staying at a party hostel or bustling town, which why my first stop was Pongwe Bay Resort, perched along a shimmery teal bay near sleepy fishing villages and seaweed farms. My goal here was to unwind, which I find difficult to do when I travel. I’m usually the person who will try every activity a hotel offers, wander the area for miles, and have a long list to sights to see.

This trip, however, I knew I needed rest and recovery. The steep descent on Kilimanjaro left my feet battered and bruised. My bones ached from sleeping on the mountain. I had been cold for days; a mere 48 hours earlier, my tears were frozen to my cheeks. What I needed was comfort and quiet.

Pongwe promised nothing but sunshine, flowers, gentle ocean waves. The most popular sightseeing spot is a small, fine-dining restaurant located on its own teensy island. It sounded perfect.

I had been so focused on Kili, though, that I was ill-prepared for the Zanzibar part of my trip. I hadn’t packed any beachwear or footwear beyond hiking boots. And while I assumed I could pick up some budget-friendly flip flops and sundresses along the way, I didn’t have a chance to stop anywhere between the airport and hotel.

Was I going to be miserable?

So this is heaven

When I saw the remote location of the resort, I imagined myself clunking around a tropical paradise in my stinky boots. Then the proprietor of the place intervened.

“Just so you know, this is a no-shoes resort,” said the owner, a handsome Italian man. “All of our paths are made of soft sand or cool stone, so please do not wear shoes anywhere.”

As if that wasn’t amazing enough, I arrived at 9 a.m., well before the 3 p.m. check-in. However, my room was already ready.

“Unless you want breakfast …?” the owner said.

I did want breakfast, because I had to leave my other hotel at 4 a.m. and hadn’t had time to eat. But I don’t like spending money on a hotel breakfast, which tends to be overpriced and underwhelming.

“You know you booked a room that includes food, right?” the owner said. My stomach rumbled in response. He gestured to a room adjacent to the dining area, filled with buffet tables covered with luscious fruits and homemade dishes.

I was already about to weep with joy when he added, “We’re running a special right now on massages. Seventy-five minutes for $40. Let me know if you’d like to book anything.”

Yes. Yes, I would be booking something.

The owner confirmed that I was only staying one night and asked what time I’d be checking out.

“Checkout is usually at 10, but nobody has the room booked after you, so you can stay as long as you’d like,” he smiled. I thanked the man profusely, and I apologized that I’d only booked one night.

He shrugged, “So you must live this one day to the very fullest.”

•••

Songs to Summit Mount Kilimanjaro

April 4, 2023

To climb Mount Kilimanjaro, I needed a banger playlist. So I made one. What I didn’t anticipate was that summit night — a seven-hour strenuous hike through the dark to reach the peak — would be such a physical, emotional, and mental hellscape, and the music would take me places I didn’t expect.

I’ll share the full story of summit night soon. In the meantime, here are some of the tunes that played during the trek to 19,341 feet.

Born to Run • Bruce Springsteen

I intentionally made this the first song on my playlist, because I thought it would get me amped for hiking. But I’m not sure wtf I was doing, because I never heard it. Not once.

All I Do is Win • DJ Khaled

I’m not really a DJ Khaled listener. But every day when we reached camp, this song barged into my head uninvited and ran through my brain on a loop, so it was a given for summit night.

Sabotage • Beastie Boys

You know what does get me amped? Anything by the Beastie Boys. I should’ve made a whole Beastie Boys playlist. I guess there’s always the next mountain.

Give No Fucks • Drama

The entirety of summit night was a struggle, but particularly the first few hours. When I eventually found my groove, this song matched my cadence. So I remember hearing the beginning of this tune, but then I zoned out on the endless road to nowhere.

Take Me With U • Prince

This is when I began to hallucinate.

There were a lot of Prince songs on my playlist, and I loved them all. But this particular one reached into my brain and elevated me to another plane.

Listen to it. There’s something about the absolute chaos of the first 15 seconds and how it abruptly transforms into something sparkling and true. It was so stunning it almost took my breath away. (Almost. I couldn’t spare any breath at that point.)

Hearing this song at this particular moment felt like the first time I did psychedelic mushrooms and discovered God in the bark of a tree. Like how did I not see this vision before? Also glittery finger cymbals! Magic.

Spaceship  Kesha

Still on my mountain high, I was walloped upside the head by my favorite Kesha song. Even though I’ve listened to Spaceship numerous times, I’ve never paid attention to the spoken part where Kesha says, “I’m nothing more than recycled stardust and borrowed energy.”

Climbing a mountain of ash and ice, I felt that. I felt that I was recycled stardust, and space was calling me home. Just put me on a spaceship. Or a helicopter. Whatever. Take me away.

Help I’m Alive • Metric

When I’m not climbing a mountain, I love this song. I hated it on Kilimanjaro.

Every time they sang, “Can you hear my heart beating like a hammer? Beating like a hammer?” I was like YES, I HEAR MY HEART BEATING LIKE A HAMMER. I hear my heart in my ears, and I feel my heart in my eyeballs. Everything’s beating. Everything’s a hammer. Fuck.

Waka Waka (This Time for Africa) • Shakira

I cried. I can’t remember if this was the first time I cried on the climb or the 47th time I cried. The sun was rising, like an oil lamp flickering to life, illuminating the rocks and glaciers, and I was just reaching Stella Point, all of Africa below.

It would take another hour from that point to reach the peak, but damn it, Shakira believed in me: “This is your moment, no hesitation / Today’s your day, I feel it.” So I wiped the tears that had frozen to my cheeks, and I kept going.

Work It • Missy Elliott

The best. I thought I was depleted, but somehow this song summoned more energy from my bruised, battered body — and even inspired me to add a little dance to my steps. Proof that songs about peen can help me accomplish most anything.

American Girl • Tom Petty

“God, it’s so painful, something that is so close is still so far out of reach,” Tom Petty crooned as I made the final push to the peak.

“A little too on the nose, Tom Petty,” I muttered to myself. “Nobody will ever believe this.”

Training for a Mount Kilimanjaro trek

March 31, 2023

I’ve had a few people reach out to me about how I trained for the Mount Kilimanjaro trek, (and I also want to remind myself of what I’m capable of), so I’m pulling it all together here. It’s a blend of weightlifting, cardio, Peloton, outdoor activity, and Wim Hof method.

Here we go:

THE BASIC PLAN

I started ramping up my cardio and doing long hikes many months in advance. But as the date of my trip creeped closer, I got serious about training. This 12-week training plan was my basic outline, and my friends who summited used this too. Because I work, have a family, and juggle a freelance career, I did modify the plan on occasion, but I tried to stick to it as best I could.

CARDIO

For cardio, I rode my Peloton a lot. For my “fun” rides, I opted for Jess King’s sweat steady rides or HIIT classes from my favorite instructors. But I primarily focused on doing Power Zone challenges — these are 6-8 week challenges of Power Zone classes, which use your individual functional threshold power for a customized workout to improve endurance, performance, and strength. I think PZ classes are also particularly effective for improving VO₂ max, the amount of oxygen your body can take in and use during exercise, and that was a priority for me. I’ve struggled with asthma my entire life, and I was nervous about the thin air at Kilimanjaro’s extremely high altitudes.

WEIGHTS

I also knew I had to get stronger in order to carry a heavy pack for several hours each day, scramble up rocks, etc. I have a set of free weights that I use at home, and I used those to do the IRON series from Caroline Girvan on YouTube. I won’t lie — these classes are HARD. Some days my muscles trembled for hours afterward. But they’re great. It’s like having the world’s best personal trainer in your house.

YOGA

Power yoga was recommended by both my pulmonologist and a friend who has summited Mount Whitney, so I added that into the mix too. It was beneficial for keeping me flexible, but also for learning to regulate my breath with strenuous movement. I took Peloton’s yoga classes, but you could do classes from anywhere. (One thing about me and yoga: I always have to force myself to do it, even though I feel great afterward and love having done it. So if you feel the same way, you’re not alone.)

OUTDOORS

Outdoor workouts were also a huge part of my training. In addition to long hikes, I also walked up the steepest road in my neighborhood, sometimes wearing a backpack weighted with dumbbells, sometimes wearing my friend’s baby in a carrier on my back.

In my case, the steepest road around is Tramway Road, which climbs 1,800 feet in 3.7 miles, and I grew to love my sunrise walks there. (We just moved away, and I miss that road more than I expected, especially considering how many times I cursed at it.)

WIM HOF

Are you familiar with Wim Hof? He’s a Dutch madman who plunges himself into ice, performs extreme athletic feats, and can hold his breath for six minutes at a time. And I completely and wholly believe in his methods. I first learned about him in a wacky GOOP documentary, I’m embarrassed to admit. Then he led a breathwork session on my favorite meditation app, and I felt tingly and high just from breathing. (That was on Insight Timer, but sadly his session has been removed.)

To prepare for Kili, I knew that cold exposure and increasing my lung capacity would be helpful, so I cobbled together some Wim Hof training on my own. I read everything I could about the guy and his techniques. I downloaded Wim’s app, paid for some of the trainings, and practiced his breathing method. I don’t have an ice bath for cold plunges, so I did cold water for the last few minutes of every shower (I increased the cold water time over a period of months). You can also find instructors trained in the Wim Hof method all over the world.


Overall, I worked very hard long before I ever saw the mountain, and then I worked very hard to summit it. And I discovered that I’m stronger and more determined than I ever realized.


Kilimanjaro gear: Some of the more unusual items

February 9, 2023

I’m almost always a minimalist packer, a carry-on only kind of gal.

So packing for the week-long trek up Kilimanjaro, which moves through five climates, has been giving me fits. Bookending the climb is a long layover in Paris and quick jaunt to Zanzibar. Plus there are also weight limits to consider.

I know this is just another travel puzzle I need to figure out, and I’m working on it.

In the meantime, I wanted to share some of the more unusual items I’ll be stashing in my duffel up the mountain.

Camp shoes

I’ve camped before, but I’ve never had a dedicated pair of camp shoes. The Kilimanjaro guides recommend bringing some, though, because your feet get cold and tired each night, and your hiking boots are the last thing you want to wear.

I bought these Ramble Puff slippers from Chaco, and they are unbelievably light and comfortable while also being very sturdy. I love them so much, I’m not going to lie — I will probably wear them in Paris with confidence and pretend they’re fashionable.

Detergent strips

Lazy Coconuts is the detergent I use at home, and I always bring a couple of strips with me when I travel. They’re great for washing a couple of items in a sink, or you can toss one in a washing machine. (I’ve had people ask how I make a few items of clothing stretch for a month-long trip, and this is my boring secret. I do laundry all over the world.)

Silicone bags

Tanzania banned plastic bags in 2019, and it’s my understanding that plastic bags can be confiscated at customs/immigration. That inspired me to finally invest in some Stasher reusable bags. I plan to use them for keeping things organized in my duffel (along with my beloved compression cubes), but they’re made of food-grade silicone, so I can use these for snacks and food prep when I get home.

Portable urinal

This is my portable urinal, or as I call it, my pee accordion. This was another item recommended by the guides, because apparently it gets so cold at night, you should not leave the tent to pee. (And I WILL have to pee, I already know this.) That’s where the portable urinal comes in.

Some folks use a Nalgene bottle. However, I will be using Nalgene bottles for drinking water, so I wanted my urinal to look as different from a Nalgene bottle as possible. My night vision is terrible.

Amazing style — priceless

A balaclava is necessary to keep my face from becoming frozen, and these polarized sunglasses are for preserving my sight, even in snow and ice.

For the balaclava, I wanted both style and substance, which is why I opted for the floral. It’s giving me Magnum P.I. climbs a mountain. Or Golden Girls at 19,500 feet.

As for the glasses, I love these already. They’re Goodr, a brand that other Kili climbers raved about, and they’re so light. When it comes time to get new sunglasses again, I’ll be a return customer.

Disclosure: I only endorse things I personally use and have purchased for myself. If you buy anything using one of the above referral links, I might receive a small commission. However, there’s no extra cost to you, and the $ goes toward paying my Internet bill.