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Road trip

Bridges, blues and the ghost of Jeff Buckley

July 17, 2012

The Husband and I spent a long, humid night in Memphis, steeped in the scent of smoky barbecue, submerged in the blues. Eventually too much sizzle did us in, and we headed back to our hotel in West Memphis, both of us exhausted and slow-cooked in our own sweat.

As The Husband navigated our car over the Hernando de Soto bridge, I suddenly sat up straight and said, “Jeff Buckley died here.”

“Who?”

“Jeff Buckley. The singer. He drowned right here.”

“Here? Like, right here?”

Well, I wasn’t really sure where, I admitted. It was somewhere in the Mississippi. But it’s a massive river. Any part of it could have taken a young singer’s life.

 

Curiosity got the better of me, and later that night I looked up the details of Jeff Buckley’s death. Sure enough, he died in Memphis — and within sight of the Hernando de Soto bridge. A chill ripped down my spine.

I haven’t thought about Jeff Buckley in years. I can’t even remember the last time I pulled out one of my Jeff Buckley albums. So what was it that summoned the memory of him then? There?

I am a person who believes in ghosts. I believe that a person’s energy never disappears from this world — that my mother whispered in my ear the night before her funeral, that her grandmother once paid a similar visit to the family, and sometimes I can still feel the both of them in the air around me.

I also believe that the veil between worlds in thinnest in the South. I don’t know why. Maybe the humidity weighs it down, makes that veil thick and droopy and, therefore, easily passable.

What I know for certain is that a wispy recollection of Jeff Buckley came to me in Memphis. I crossed over a bridge and looked in a rear-view mirror, all the while humming “Lover You Should’ve Come Over.” I felt the fullness of a life in the space of his death, and it reminded me that people are never really gone. They just temporarily drift away.

Road trip: Hitting America’s hot spots – with air conditioning

June 20, 2012

I don’t mind the heat so much. I live in a desert. Warm weather comes with the territory.

What bothers me is that my car has no air conditioning. This isn’t a problem most of the year. But in summer months — when the sun is blazing and temperatures climb above 110 degrees — it is torture.

It makes me think of when I was little, and my pastor gave ominous sermons about what awaited unrepentant sinners in hell. None of it frightened me until he got to the Lake of Fire part, which is downright terrifying. This is a lake … made of FIRE. As someone scared of both drowning and burning, it is the worst possible scenario.

 

What I didn’t expect was that my car would become my own personal lake of fire. My hand is scorched by the steering wheel, even through the fabric that covers it. Sweat rolls down my eyelids and pools in the bottom of my sunglasses. I once made the mistake of leaving some coins on the seat — I now have Abraham Lincoln permanently branded to the back of my thigh.

Rolling down the windows brings little relief. It’s merely opening the doors to the blast furnace. The breeze feels more like I’m holding a hair dryer to my face. I arrive at my destination exhausted, dehydrated, red-faced and soaked with sweat. I am drowning and burning, simultaneously.

And the worst part is that I’m still here on earth, racking up sins. I’m not supposed to feel like I’m in hell yet.

 

Thankfully, The Husband and I are buying a new-to-us car. We found a fantastic, affordable 2010 Honda Accord WITH AIR CONDITIONING! I am so grateful and so happy.

The only minor setback is that this vehicle is in Ohio, so we’re making a little vacation out of it. We’re flying home to spend time with our loved ones in the Midwest, then we’ll pick up the car and drive it back to California.

On our way back, we’re doing a mini version of the Great American Road Trip — even though it’s more like The Teeny-Weeny American Road Trip, Southern Fried With Gravy on Top.

 

Here’s our itinerary:

Flying: 2,106 miles

Driving: 2,804 miles

Stops: Nashville, Memphis, New Orleans, Houston, El Paso.

Along the way: Family. Friends. A former crush. Two editors. A brother-in-law. An adorable niece. Graceland. BBQ. Bourbon. Tacos.

Have any suggestions for what to see, do and eat along this route? Send them my way!