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Travel

Travel and body image

May 31, 2011

There’s got to be more to life than just being really, really, really ridiculously good-looking.

— Derek Zoolander, international male model


I was in Ethiopia when someone told me I had an enormous nose.

“Are you Italian?” he said.

No, I replied.

He continued, “I ask that because you have such a huge, huge nose.”

Nope, not Italian, I confirmed.

“It’s just that your nose is so big,” he said. “I knew an Italian woman once, and she had a nose big like yours.”

I understand what you are saying, I told him. But I’m still not Italian.

His words stung. I’ve been self-conscious about my nose for as long as I can remember. It’s a defiantly bulbous thing that descends off my face like a lumpy potato. From the side, I think it cuts the profile of a turtle head. I do my best to ignore it and pretend like it’s not even there.

Unfortunately, this nose has become a major topic of conversation along my travels.

“So, tell me about being Jewish,” said a man at a cafe in Uganda.

I’m not Jewish, I told him.

“But your nose …” he said.

I explained that there are many different Jewish people around the world, and they all look different. I, however, am not one of them, because I am not Jewish.

“So you are a Christian woman with a Jewish nose,” he said, shaking his head. “Very sad.”

Though these discussions are uncomfortably direct, they are not always negative. On a train in India, an entire family examined my nose from all sides. Then the father pointed to his 9-month-old son.

“We massage his nose every day so it will be strong and proud like yours!” he said.

Thank you. I think?

People have been equally blunt about my shape.

“Oh my god, you are so huge,” said a motorcycle taxi driver in Uganda. “I don’t even know if this moto will go, you are so enormous.”

I’m having a difficult time now in Southeast Asia, where almost everyone is lean, petite, tiny. At a shop in Thailand, one clerk shook her head as soon as I walked in the door. “No size for you!” she yelled. I had to pay extra when I had clothes tailored to fit in Vietnam, because, as the tailor pointed out, “We need much, much fabric for big, big body.” I tower over people on the street.

I have seen so many beautiful women around the world. Plump Indian grandmothers wrapped in gold and green saris, with buttery baguettes of flesh tumbling out of the layers of fabric. Ethiopian tribes where the women rub red ochre in their braids, their skin pulled shiny and tight over firm muscles. Vietnamese women who have the complexion of eggshells and eyelashes like moth wings. Argentine women who effortlessly look like supermodels while eagerly shoveling down steaks as big as bistro tables. Egyptian women who have the entire universe in their charcoal-lined eyes, their hair pulled back and covered like a wonderful secret.

Every woman is exquisite in a multitude of ways — so you’d think after witnessing this scope of beauty, I could ease up a little on myself. Still, I crinkle my nose in the mirror and wish that I had the money to slice and dice what I see. Too big.

I have also seen so much hardship around the world. I met people who struggled to survive through genocide, famine, political unrest, abuse, inadequate health care. How could I possibly complain about my reflection when I have limbs that work, a constant supply of food and water to sustain me, a support group of family and friends and a future of wide, open opportunity? Still, I curl my hands into fists and beat on my thighs. Too big.

I thought I could out-travel my own issues and insecurities.

Instead, they’re still staring me in the face.

 

PHOTOS: Cats I have known

May 29, 2011

Felines around the world.

In Nuweiba, Egypt.

Hampi, India.

Mumbai, India.

Nuweiba, Egypt.

Phonsavan, Laos.

Petra, Jordan.

Kruger National Park, South Africa.

Omo Valley, Ethiopia.

In Dahab, Egypt. I named him David Bowie. (Also note the cat under the chair photobombing this shot.)

Chiang Mai, Thailand.

 

Things not allowed in this room

May 28, 2011
The rules.

 

Things not allowed in my hostel in Luang Prabang, Laos.

1. Illegal things.

2. Ammunitions.

3. Drugs.

4. Crambling.

5. Both women and men which is not your own husband or wife for making love.

6. Prostitute.

7. Others.

8. Making sex movies.

 

5 simple things for peace of mind

May 26, 2011

Solo travel can be a potentially scary prospect.

Even though I’ve done my best to minimize dangerous situations, there are still moments when I can’t steer clear of menacing cab drivers, guesthouses at the end of sketchy alleys and walking home late at night.

What’s a backpacker to do?

Here are five simple items that make me feel safer — and all of them are small, inexpensive and easy to pack in a bag or purse.

1. Knife. Stab attackers right in the neck! BOO-YAH!

OK, probably not. I know someone would have to be super close for me to actually wield this little guy in defense. But I like that it fits easily into my palm and I can open it one-handed.

Beyond that, this knife has been invaluable for slicing open stubborn packages and cutting stray threads. It even has a bottle opener!

2. Tiny flashlight. A small but mighty LED light packs a punch in dark, scary places. This has come in handy more times than I can remember.

(Shoutout to Steve and Sara for the wonderful gift!)

3. Door stop. I’ve stayed in hostels where the locks don’t work. Heck, I’ve stayed in hostels where the doorknob falls off the door. And sometimes I just get creeped out by the hostel owner. (I am specifically thinking of one weirdo hostel manager who gave me a beer. When I offered to pay he ominously said, “Don’t worry, you’ll pay. Americans always pay.”)

A 99-cent door stop wedges the door shut, ensuring nobody can come into my room unannounced.

4. Xubaz scarf. Have you seen these marvelous scarves yet?

It’s a fashion accessory, it’s a traveler’s best friend. Each scarf has thoughtful elements like a hidden pocket, secret zipper pouches and bungees to secure it all to your belt loops. In the event that something terrible happens, you’ll still have a stash of money, credit cards or your passport.

Looks cute after four days of hiking the Inca Trail too!

5. Whistle. I’ve never had to use this one yet, but it makes me feel more confident just seeing it dangle on the zipper of my purse.

BONUS!

You should always bring a baggage lock or two with you. You know this already.

Beyond little combination locks, I also love having this cable lock on hand. It’s perfect for those moments where I want to keep my things safe from grabby hands, but I also don’t want to devote 100 percent of my attention to my bags.

A perfect example is an overnight train — I just use the cable to secure my bag to something immobile, and then I can snooze without worry.

It won’t stop someone who really, really wants to steal my things, but I don’t think anything short of an ACME industrial-sized vault would keep my things completely protected.

And let’s face it. That’s just not practical.

 

PHOTOS: Public art in Vietnam

May 24, 2011

What I expected in Vietnam: Chaos, scooters, noodle soup. And that’s what I got.

I didn’t anticipate lovely green spaces in the middle of the cities. And that’s what I got too.

Here are some of my favorite public art pieces from across the country.