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Travel

Getting a name

January 8, 2011

When I met the Bedouin man in Egypt, he said he could help me find authentic souvenirs at a good price. Like my name written in flowy Arabic letters, crafted out of pure silver.
I loved that idea. It would be like Carrie’s nameplate necklace from “Sex and the City,” but with an international twist.
Because the Bedouin man had become a friend, we purchased the necklace through him, sight unseen. My husband shelled out both money and trust.
And then we received the necklace.

The crudely fashioned pendant was slightly tarnished and scratched. The chain was twisted. There was no clasp. And on the top right corner, where the “M” attached to the chain, there appeared to be a chicken foot.

It was nothing at all like the liquidy, flowing script I had imagined.

Someone later said, “Where’d you get that cheap hunk of metal?”

I said, “Well, I was told it was silver.” He laughed as he fingered the necklace, then pointed out that real silver has a stamp on the back. Silver also doesn’t bend.

“Also, what is that thing on the ‘M’?”

I said it’s supposed to be a lotus flower. The man giggled.

“Looks like a chicken foot,” he said.

I saw the Bedouin man again and told him that the necklace was a fake. He called his guy, there were some angry words exchanged in Arabic, then he calmed. When he got off the phone, he explained, “It doesn’t have a stamp on the back because this man uses such pure silver that there is no such stamp for it. It’s the fake silver that has a stamp, because they want you to think it’s real.”

He continued, “And it bends because real silver is soft. Fake silver has other metals mixed with it to make it strong.”

I didn’t want to get into an argument because it wasn’t worth it. The Bedouin obviously wanted to trust his guy, and there was no way I was going to win. I would just have to suck this up as a mistake.

I’ve been wearing the necklace for the past week, as I’ve been burrowing in another part of Egypt. The metal is already starting to rust, of course, but I love it anyway.

I feel like it actually does represent me and who I am right now. A little weak but pliable. Beautiful despite the imperfections. Authentic and precious in my own way.

Best of all, this necklace proudly declares my name for all the world to see: Maggie Chickenfoot.

 

Travel time-out

January 6, 2011

I am burrowing.

I tend to do this every winter. For the longest time, I thought it was seasonal affective disorder. Then I moved to the California desert, which gets approximately 500 days of sunshine per year, and I realized I no longer have an excuse.

Now I’m starting to think it’s the natural rhythm of humans. Or maybe it’s just the natural rhythm of me — holing up, turning inward and building a cocoon before I have the energy to break out again.

What surprises me is that I have to still do this while traveling. I mean, here I am out in the world … I should be going places! I should be meeting people! I should be doing something!

Instead, I am void of ambition. I am mentally and physically broken down. I have some family issues going on, which leave me feeling vulnerable and imperfect. I am lonely and a little sad. Plus, I recently got over a case of worms and parasites, and the 17 mosquito bites on my face are only now starting to heal. I am exhausted.

So I am holed up at El Salam Yoga Camp in Dahab, Egypt.

This is where I am resting. I am jogging on the shore of the Red Sea. I am getting lost in hours of yoga. I am reading and catching up on writing and making confessions in my journal. I am playing with puppies and squeezing kittens. I am thinking.

I feel guilty about all of this, like I should be doing more, traveling further, volunteering for somebody somewhere. Instead, the biggest accomplishment of my day is making soup.

Dakini, the woman who runs this camp, gave me a little squeeze around my shoulders and assured me that I’m doing exactly what I need to be doing.

“Get strong,” she said. “You have to honor yourself. Realize that by helping yourself you are helping the people around you, and ultimately that helps the world.”

Soon, I hope I will find myself with the ability to move on and have more meaningful experiences and adventures.

But now, I am burrowing.

 

Egyptian blue

January 3, 2011

Before I arrived in Egypt, I imagined it in neutrals. The dirty khaki of Cairo. The warm, beige sand of Giza. The glow of ancient gold.

But now that I’m here, all I see is blue.

 

The year that was

December 31, 2010

The Husband and I had just finished hiking Mount Sinai.

Our trek was made in the dark, starting around 1 a.m., with a bedouin as our guide up the mountain. We reached the peak in time to hunker down, wrap ourselves in heavy blankets and watch the sunrise. Then, hungry and exhausted, we walked back down again.

I wasn’t focused on much more than putting one tired foot in front of the other. Suddenly I noticed my husband was lagging behind.

When I looked back, he was crouched next to a little girl. Her eyes were red and her expression was pinched and panicked.

“What’s wrong?” my husband asked her.

She was sniffling too much to speak.

“Did you fall?” he said. As much as we both wanted to run down that mountain and get back to our hostel, my husband was being patient and sweet.

The girl took a few deep breaths, then rattled out a string of words, none of which I understood.

“Parlez-vous francais?” my husband asked. “Español?”

She tried communicating again, and a few words clicked in my head.

“She’s Russian,” I said. “And I think she lost her parents.”

“It will be OK. Come with us,” my husband said slowly. He explained with kind eyes and a gentle smile what his words couldn’t.

She followed us down the trail. I gave her an orange. She clutched it to her chest and offered me half a smile.

As we passed people on the trail, my husband desperately looked for someone who spoke Russian. Finally, a multilingual tour guide was able to help. With a couple of phone calls, her parents were located and the girl was reunited with them.

That incident crystalizes what has made 2010 such an extraordinary year for me.

I am so grateful for every moment of my entire life that has led me to this place.

I am grateful for the adventure of climbing mountains in the dark.

I am grateful for the stillness of watching the sun pop out over layers of blue peaks.

I am grateful I married the right man.

I am grateful for my husband’s wide open heart.

I am grateful for the opportunity to see more of this fantastic world.

I am grateful for meaningful interaction with other people — sharing a moment, using smiles to cross language barriers, making a connection.

Above all, I am grateful for the fresh slate of 2011 and all the richness and beauty it will bring.

Happy New Year, everyone. Here’s to 365 days of awesomeness for all of us.

 

Write like an Egyptian

December 30, 2010

Whenever I walk into a temple or pyramid here, I have a difficult time believing the hieroglyphs are real.

They’re just so old. And so deep. And so perfect. And so there.

It feels more like something from Epcot Center or the set of “The Mummy.”

And oh, hey! Bart Simpson!

Maybe it’s just overwhelming to see such an exquisite ancient system of writing and communication.

My handwriting never looked this good.

Also this? Hieroglyph FAIL.