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Travel

Float on

December 29, 2010

I’m pretty sure that when something or someone was designing this great big world, the shimmering, slithering Nile River was a beautiful afterthought — the cherry on top of the sundae, the ribbon on top of a perfectly wrapped present.

It is home to great abundance.

And quiet simplicity.

The Nile is also one of the best ways to get from point A to point B in Egypt, far from the overwhelming chaos of the shore.

On the river there is no haggling, no harrassment, no salesmen, no noise. It’s a place to simply be, while everything else floats away.

The Husband and I took a felucca ride when we stayed in Luxor. However, we picked a night with no wind — which was great for the weather and our comfort, but not so great for sailing.

The feluccas hugged the shore, with the crew hopping into thick, knee-high mud or leaping onto nearby buildings, using ropes and sheer strength to tow the boats through the current.

Occasionally a motorboat would chug by.

Meanwhile, my boat used human motors.

Then we drifted, through the sunset and into the night.

 

Up in the air

December 28, 2010

Egypt makes my neck hurt. Practically everything worth looking at is located way up high.

You know those roller things that mechanics use to slide underneath cars? Egypt should think about using some of those for temple tours.

 

Fa-la-la-la-la-lafel

December 26, 2010

When my husband and I were tryng to figure out where in the world to meet for the holidays, I threw out some practical suggestions.

“London is a good halfway point and a big airline hub.”

“Nah.”

“Paris? It’s easy to get there and it would be romantic. Or Rome? Frankfurt? Istanbul?”

“Nope. Nope. Nope. Nope.”

“Well, Cairo is a major city, but too far out of the way …”

“YES.”

And that’s how we ended up in a predominantly Muslim country for Christmas — because my husband only wants to travel to places that have been in Indiana Jones movies.

Our Christmas day began with a short hop from Luxor to Sharm el Sheikh.

This is the Red Sea. You might remember it from such works as The Bible or Charlton Heston movies.

At the airport, everybody was in the Christmas spirit, even Arab African International Bank …

… and baggage claim.

One cab ride and a few police checkpoints later, The Husband and I arrived at our reefside hostel — so beautiful it felt like a Christmas miracle!

I’ve never been one of those people who gets really into Christmas. My dad usually sends one of those small and droopy Charlie Brown trees, and if it wasn’t for him, I wouldn’t have any decorations at all.

But this year, removed from all the Christmas hype, I found myself aching for lights, garland and tinsel, and I gleefully took photos of anything that resembled the holidays back home.

For breakfast on the beach, I ate falafel, just so that I could make that fa-la-la-lafel joke in the post title. It was delicious, too.

Later that afternoon, our hostel hosted a holiday dinner. The chefs attempted their very first turkey. Even though that’s not really my thing, it was sweet to see how proud and excited they were to present a Christmas meal to weary and homesick travelers.

We ended the day smoking shesha on the beach and watching the waves.

There was no snow this Christmas. No carols, no wrapping paper, no stockings. But we were together, and that was the best present of all.

 

Special guest star

December 24, 2010

Making a cameo appearance for just two short weeks … The Husband!

In addition to making camero appearances on GirlVentures, The Husband is also an experienced Egyptian carpet weaver …

Felucca captain …

Pyramid holder …

And camel walker.

Plus, he’s my very best friend. It’s safe to say I couldn’t do this round-the-world trip without his constant love, trust and support.

I honestly didn’t think we’d be able to spend the holidays together this year. Yet here we are, with two precious weeks side by side on a whirlwind tour of Egypt.

It’s the very best possible Christmas gift. Santa himself couldn’t have come up with anything better.

I’m positively giddy The Husband is my corner of the world right now, because the last six months without him have been rough.

I can’t say that absence makes the heart grow fonder — mostly because I was pretty damn fond of him to begin with — but absence does help you cherish the things that matter most.

Merry Christmas, everyone. I hope you’re spending it with people you love.

 

Inside Kom Ombo

December 23, 2010

Egypt reminds me of the first time I visited the Grand Canyon and realized there are no guard rails.

Like, seriously? You trust me with this?

Take, for example, Kom Ombo. This temple was built somewhere around 150 B.C., and it’s unique in that it was designed for two sets of gods.

Honestly, I am too clumsy to be around ruins without some kind of velvet rope or glass to protect the antiquities. And at most of the temples, tombs and pyramids, there aren’t many things in place to separate the people from the priceless.

There are guards, but they basically let tourists stomp all over, scale the rocks, touch the delicate hieroglyphs, even stub out cigarettes on the walls.

This tiny little Kom Ombo temple is among my favorite places in Egypt so far. Not only is it situated in a quiet agricultural area along the bank of the Nile River, but the etchings are also quite stunning.

It’s a wonderful place. I just hope tourists don’t ruin it before everybody else gets a chance to see it.