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Holy crêpe: Paris and the tale of the long layover

January 22, 2023
Paris at twilight when the sky is lavender

Why am I stopping in Paris on my way to Tanzania?

That’s a great question, and the answer offers some insight into how I travel.

I’m headed to Tanzania to climb Kilimanjaro in early March. It’s an expensive trip that has been a long time coming, so I want everything to go as smoothly as possible.

In reading accounts of people who didn’t successfully summit the mountain, three things repeatedly popped up: The hiker started their trek while still feeling the effects of jet lag, they didn’t have sufficient gear, and/or they physically couldn’t acclimate to the altitude during the climb.

Two of those things are within my control. (Meanwhile, acclimatization seems to be a roll of the dice.)

I usually don’t check luggage, but in this case I have too much gear for a carry-on bag. So for my trip to Tanzania, I’m going slowly. My hope is that this will minimize jet lag, and the handful of extra travel days will serve as a buffer in the event of delays or lost luggage.

I looked at all my options for long layovers, and Paris jumped out for a few reasons: It’s a necessary stop for a future book project; I thought I’d be able to convince my friends to join me; and most importantly, I’ve never been! Though I’ve traveled to France before, I’ve somehow always missed Paris. And while I’m enough of a contrarian that I don’t feel a deep need to visit the city of lights, I’m not going to pass up an opportunity to explore a beautiful place.

I found a great deal on a nonstop flight from LAX to Paris for $400. Then I used United MileagePlus award points to book the rest of my trip, a flight from Paris to Tanzania with a brief stop in Ethiopia.

Usually I like to keep a lot of space for spontaneity when I travel. But because I only have three days in Paris, I created a schedule to make the most of that time. I booked a hotel, scheduled interviews, arranged tours.

The airline, however, had a different plan — and they cancelled my flight. While they did offer to put me on another flight, one was a week earlier, and one arrived too late. So that didn’t work.

Since we’re just over a month out from the trip, new flights on other airlines are about $1,000, plus taxes and fees. Merde!

At this point, I have too much research, work, and money invested in going to Paris, so I can’t skip it. But at that price, I can’t go to Paris.

My simple layover was going to drive me in-seine.

Here’s how I fixed it

First, I did many, many searches for flights, using every trick I know.

Nothing.

Then I moved some points around to my United MileagePlus account and booked an awards flight from Palm Springs to Paris for 30k points + $5. I kept the awards flight I already have from Paris to Tanzania.

For my return, United doesn’t charge a change fee for awards flights, so I rescheduled my Tanzania to Paris flight as a Tanzania to Palm Springs trip, which cost 44k points and $240 (most of that money was for seat selection, a pointless fee I will forever gripe about). It is going to be a terrible, 37-hour travel day — but I don’t need to build any buffers into the return flight, I just need to get home.

So I’m getting for Paris for less money than the flight I originally booked, though I am blowing through a lot of points. But hey, that’s what those are for, right?

I have to admit, right now I feel … triomphe-ant.

Road trip: Underground adventure at Mitchell Caverns in the Mojave Desert

January 9, 2023

The guide prepped us with a countdown of “Three, two, one …”

Instantly, we were plunged into the blackest darkness I’ve ever experienced. A darkness so complete, it felt thick. I put my hand in front of my face, and not only was I unable to see it, I wondered if my hand still existed.

Just when I felt like I might be falling through space, my son wrapped his arms around my legs. A moment later, the guide turned on the small lights that illuminated the path.

I quickly reoriented myself. Ahead of me, cave. Behind me, cave. Above me, you guessed it. Cave.

It’s a good thing I’m not the kind of person who gets claustrophobic in confined spaces. Rather, I’m the kind of person who, when faced with darkness, potentially loses their own body.

I was standing in the deepest point of Mitchell Caverns, an adventurous Southern California road trip destination within two hours’ drive from Barstow and a fun add-on for camping trips in the surrounding area.

The caverns are named for Jack Mitchell, who bought claims to the land and sounds a bit like a sunbaked, desert version of P.T. Barnum. Back in 1934, he and his wife, Ida, built stone structures by hand on the property and ran a small resort that included tours of the caves. They also developed the road that led from Route 66 to the caverns, approximately 22 miles, and turned it into a popular attraction.

On view are two main caves: “El Pakiva,” the Devil’s House, and “Tecopa,” named for a Shoshone chief. There’s a third cave, but it’s deep and dangerous, and at this point it’s off limits to the public.

The tour enters through the “eyes of the mountain” and only becomes more spectacular from there.

The caverns feature some unique and unusual formations, and our guide was excellent about explaining them. I knew about stalagmites and stalactites, but I had no idea that so many cave features are named for food! We saw cave bacon, cave frosting, cave mushrooms, and cave shields — “they’re kind of like a sandwich,” our guide said.

Overall the caverns were more impressive than I expected, a true gem within the California state park system.

GO SEE IT

Where: Mitchell Caverns is located in the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area in the eastern Mojave Desert.

When: The State Park is open Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holiday Mondays from September to June. (Closed July and August.)

You must have a guided tour for the caverns. Reserve this by calling (760)928-2586 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. on Mondays. Group size is limited to 15 people.

What time: Tours are approximately 2 hours long and take place at 10 a.m. in June and September, and 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. during the other months.

Cost: Tours are $10 per adult, $9 per senior, and $5 for children. There’s also a $10 State Park fee per vehicle.

Bring: There’s no gas or food located within many miles of the attraction, so make sure you have everything you need to fuel yourself and your vehicle. For the tour, you can take a water bottle, but no backpacks or snacks.

Good to know: The bat population is being decimated by white-nose syndrome. It’s a fungal growth that does not affect humans, but humans can carry and spread the spores, and the spores can survive for up to a decade. For that reason, the park requests that whatever you wear to Mitchell Caverns, you never wear into another cave. (So if you have plans to visit another cave soon, this is a great excuse to buy new hiking boots!)

Accessibility: The location of the caverns do not allow for trails to be ADA accessible. Also, the cavern formations create areas as low as 62 inches and as narrow as 14 inches. There are video tours of the caverns that can be viewed inside the visitor center.

Find out more: Visit the park website


Need outdoor gear? Check here first

December 26, 2022

There are plenty of reasons to buy used outdoor gear. It saves money, making recreation more affordable and accessible. It’s better for the planet, (and if you’re spending time outdoors, chances are you dig this planet). And at a time of fast fashion, when 85% of clothing ends up in landfills, buying used means you’re not contributing to that abysmal number.

I’ve been prepping for a trek on Mount Kilimanjaro, which unfortunately comes with a hefty gear list. I’ll be renting some items in Tanzania, but for things like base layers and jackets, I want to have my own reliable pieces. At the same time, I don’t want to break my budget on $90 waterproof mittens I’ll wear once.

That’s how I found these excellent sites where you can extend the life of quality, functional gear without spending a bundle. It’s never been easier to reduce consumption!

Here are my favorites so far:

• Patagonia Worn Wear — Patagonia Worn Wear consists of two main collections: Recrafted garments are new pieces made from the fabric of used clothes; meanwhile, Patagonia pieces that leave the factory with some sort of flaw are refurbished for the Seconds collection.

REI Used — Awesome selection of a wide variety of gear and clothing. Note that you have to be an REI co-op member to shop (or sell) on the used site.

• Arc’teryx ReGear — Arc’teryx makes high quality goods with a price tag to match, which makes the used clothing such a great deal

• Eddie Bauer (Re)Adventure — You can rent from this site or make a purchase. (I scored a very cozy 3-in-1 ski jacket for $66!) [EDITED TO NOTE: Eddie Bauer has sadly discontinued this program. Fingers crossed they will bring it back.]

• The North Face Renewed – The same North Face stuff you love elsewhere, but at a fraction of the price.

• GearTrade — A marketplace of many brands and a frustrating search portal. But the deals are good, and it’s worth scouring the site to find what you need.

• ThredUp — This thrift site for women and children’s clothing isn’t dedicated to outdoor gear, but I’ve found a lot of great active wear. If you haven’t shopped ThredUp before, here’s $10 off your first purchase.

• Outdoors Geek — A site for rental camping gear that also sells gently used goods.

Know any others? Let me know in the comments!

My ultimate California bucket list

December 19, 2022

I confess it’s taken me years to pull together my ultimate California bucket list — but that’s probably because there’s so much to do in the Golden State!

I’ve been chipping away at items ever since I moved here in 2005. Some things I did immediately (road trip along State Route 1), some fell off the list entirely (appear as a contestant on The Price is Right), and many I’d still like to do (bike the Golden Gate Bridge, hike in Yosemite, and so on). This post is a compilation of my top 50.

Keep in mind, this list is in no particular order. Also since I live in Southern California, it’s heavy on items in this part of the state.

What else would you add?

Fireworks over the Hollywood Bowl

50 things you must do in California

  1. Hike to the Hollywood sign ☑️
  2. Stay at Madonna Inn
  3. Watch a show at Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace ☑️
  4. Summit Mount Whitney
  5. See a Joshua Tree sunrise ☑️
  6. Bike the Golden Gate bridge
  7. Check out the mud pots in Lassen Volcanic National Park
  8. Attend the Indigenous sunrise gathering on Alcatraz
  9. Stay overnight in the haunted room at the Queen Mary
  10. Tour Hearst Castle ☑️
  11. Drive State Route 1 ☑️
  12. Visit General Sherman at Sequoia National Park ☑️
  13. Whale watching at Dana Point ☑️
  14. Disneyland ☑️
  15. Visit La Brea Tar Pits
  16. Sound bath at the Integratron ☑️
  17. See Solvang during the holiday season ☑️
  18. Go camping in Big Sur ☑️
  19. Swim in Lake Tahoe
  20. Drive around Catalina in a golf cart ☑️
  21. Stay at Esalen
  22. Order from the secret menu at In-N-Out ☑️ (Actually I should do a separate list of California bucket-list foods)
  23. Visit the Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt County
  24. Spend time in Channel Islands National Park ☑️
  25. Visit Watts Towers
  26. Ride in a San Francisco cable car ☑️
  27. See a movie in Hollywood Forever Cemetery
  28. Buy books at City Lights ☑️
  29. Tour Winchester Mystery House
  30. Watch the rocks at Death Valley racetrack ☑️
  31. See the swallows at San Juan Capistrano Mission
  32. Hike Half Dome in Yosemite
  33. See the Antelope Valley poppies in full bloom ☑️
  34. Attend Pageant of the Masters
  35. Help build floats for the Tournament of Roses Parade ☑️
  36. Drive (the CA portion of) Route 66 ☑️
  37. Look through the telescopes at Griffith Observatory
  38. Visit a fire lookout
  39. See a live taping of a TV show
  40. Experience the Magic Castle ☑️
  41. Climb Kelso Dunes in the Mojave Desert ☑️
  42. See the Mono Lake Tufa towers ☑️
  43. Watch the sunset from Sunset Cliffs in San Diego ☑️
  44. See a show at the Hollywood Bowl ☑️
  45. Hike to Potato Chip Rock ☑️
  46. Put dimes on Frank Sinatra’s grave ☑️
  47. Visit Golden Gate fortune cookie factory in San Francisco’s Chinatown ☑️
  48. Stroll Rodeo Drive
  49. Explore Salvation Mountain and East Jesus ☑️
  50. Be an extra in a film

52 Hikes, Part 2: Covid-safe family hiking in Palm Springs (and beyond!)

February 28, 2021

This year I set a goal of taking 52 different hikes with my family. You can read Part 1 here, which is about our 11 hikes in January.

That brings us to February, one of the best hiking months in Palm Springs. It’s post-holidays, so the trails aren’t crawling with people, and it’s pre-summer, so the trails aren’t crawling with rattlesnakes. Perfection!

Here are the 8 hikes we did this month.

Keep in mind: 
• These hikes are family-friendly, meaning they were good for my family. They are not necessarily stroller accessible or toddler-friendly. 
• I’m strategic about when and where I hike. Some popular trails get heavy traffic throughout the day, and I don’t feel comfortable on narrow paths with people who might not be wearing masks. So I go early or late.
• Don’t take my distance as gospel. Hiking with a 6-year-old child involves a fair amount of wandering, so your mileage might vary. 
• Do check check a website like AllTrails for current trail conditions. I always look the map to get an idea of the terrain, and I read the most recent comments for any relevant info. 
• Please wear a mask when you encounter others on the trail.


North Lykken to Falls View, Palm Springs • 6 miles

We accessed this via the trailhead on Cielo Road, which is located in my favorite Palm Springs neighborhood. From here the journey appears so charming and not at all like the brutal killer it is.

I kid. Kind of.

After a quick but steep climb, the trail leads you through Chino Canyon, which is an isolated and tranquil part of Palm Springs. It’s particularly dreamy when wildflowers are in bloom and the whole canyon looks like a screensaver.

Okay, here’s the killer part: The hike was pleasant out through the canyon but surprisingly strenuous on the return. I partially attribute this to a lack of snacks and an unseasonably warm February day, but wow. Just watch out for that. We should have turned back long before I turned into a hangry goblin.

Lake Calavera Loop, Oceanside • 4.3 miles

We spent Presidents’ Day weekend in a remote yurt, which was wonderful and gave us new places to explore.

I really loved this trail system because it was a great mix of well-maintained, easy trails and wilderness with rock scrambling and overgrown parts. Also you can’t beat the excellent view from the top.

However, so few people were wearing masks that I wondered if Oceanside had defeated the virus and didn’t tell anyone.

The trail had heavy traffic at the beginning and end, but we were able to maintain good distance on offshoot trails in between.

Los Jilgueros Loop, Fallbrook • 1.2 miles

A quick loop around a sweet nature preserve. It seemed to be a popular place for birders.

Roadrunner/Chuckwalla Loop, Rancho Mirage • 3.1 miles

A picturesque trail system that ambles through the mountains around the Ritz Carlton — a five-star view for free!

Aside: We didn’t make that rock heart that you see in the photo, because I teach Everest to leave only footprints. But he was happy to stumble upon it!

Araby Trail, Palm Springs • 3 miles

This trail takes you past the Bob Hope home, a mushroomy modernist masterpiece, and into the hills beyond the residence. It’s so fun, especially in the spring when the hills are lush and verdant. Also it holds some surprises. I won’t spoil them for you.

Continue toward Berns Trail Lookout for a longer loop, which we did not do.

North Lykken Loop, Palm Springs • 1.4 miles

There are a lot of ways to access the Lykken in Palm Springs. For this hike, we used the trailhead on Ramon Road, and it was an entirely different experience than the North Lykken loop we hiked earlier in the month.

My son had such a great time here, because there were dozens of offshoot trails to explore, outcroppings to climb, and plenty of adventures to be had. Plus there are spectacular views of downtown Palm Springs throughout. We didn’t cover much distance, but we spent a few hours having the best time.

We could have continued this hike north, where it meets up with the Museum Trail. Instead we followed the map on AllTrails to make this a true loop, ascending via the steep dirt trail and returning on the stone “road.”

South Lykken, Palm Springs • 3.6 miles

I personally refer to this as Middle Lykken, because there’s another South Lykken trailhead at Oswit Canyon.

This is my very favorite trail in Palm Springs, because it’s both challenging but rewarding, and it’s always spectacular. Over the past few years, it’s rare to hike here and not see bighorn sheep, although you might have to keep your eyes peeled. (Other times, they walk right across the trail!)

Note: There’s no parking at the trailhead, so park on Mesquite close to Palm Canyon, near the Happy Traveler RV Park, and walk up the street until it dead-ends at the mountain.

Pushawalla Palms Loop, Coachella Valley Preserve • 4.6 miles

This trail is like traveling through an actual metaphor — you have to trudge through the desert to get to an oasis.

Multiple oases, to be accurate.

Follow a slender ridge along the top of a bluff before descending to the Pushawalla Palms grove on the desert floor. This is a cool oasis with water that has been brought to the surface from the San Andreas Fault.

Along the way back, you’ll pass through another collection of full-skirted palms and see even more water. Here we had a snack, lolled in the shade from the trees, and watched a flock of Gambel’s quail skitter about — a respite from the rest of the world.