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Dino-mite!

August 31, 2010

Our story begins a million, billion years ago — 1949, to be exact — when an earthquake shook up Sucre, Bolivia, levelling many of the city’s buildings.

In an effort to rebuild, a cement company was formed on the outskirts of town, extracting limestone from the surrounding hills and mountains. Over the years, as the workers dug through layers of stone and dirt, a sheer rock face emerged … along with more than 5,000 dinosaur footprints.

(NOTE: Dinosaurs pictured above are not real.)

The site is now home to a quaint little museum that overlooks the wall of footprints.

I was a little disappointed that we couldn’t get closer to the footprints, but I completely understand the need for preservation. I also know that many tourists are assholes and would probably destroy the delicate footprints if given the opportunity.

So this is the best that I — and my camera’s pathetic zoom — can offer you. If you look carefully, you can see tracks running vertically up the rock.

You’ll have to trust me that in real life, it’s even more spectacular. It almost looks like the footprints that cover the floor of a dance studio, except here it’s a brontosaurus doing the tango with triceratops.

Supposedly this land dates back 68 million years, before the Andes were even formed. Back then, the area was a muddy lake bed, where dinosaurs had picnics and parties (I’m assuming). Then sediment covered the tracks before they had a chance to be washed away.

Over time, layers of rock preserved the footprints, until they were rediscovered and turned into a tourist attraction.

 

Peru wrap-up

August 13, 2010

Some call Peru “the catalog of the world,” and for good reason — the country boasts a little bit of everything.

I started this trip with some knowledge of that diversity, but I was still in awe of what I found. From deserts to thick rainforest canopies, Peru really does have it all. It’s a downright magical place.

I think I’ll always have a special place in my heart for this country. Not only is it the place where I leapt out of my old life and into my new career as round-the-world adventurer, but it’s also where I spent my honeymoon.

Together, The Husband and I tackled the Inca Trail, and he cheered me on when things got rough.

Together we explored the Amazon and saw things we never could have imagined. He also nursed all my bug bites with “dragon’s blood” from a shaman, including a few welts from a spider who was determined to know me intimately.

And together, we just spent a lot of time enjoying each other.

I know there’s value in solo travel and in traveling with your friends — both of which I’ll get to know better as this trip progresses.

But there was something particularly special about starting this journey with my new husband — and learning how love can grow even bigger in places we never expected.

 

The story of Ez

August 13, 2010

Deborah and I became aquainted with the stray dog on the steps of Hotel Esmeralda, a small resort near our hostel in Coroico, Bolivia.

He was adorable, the color of caramel being stirred into chocolate, and had a sweet and lively personality. Every time we came near, he hopped to attention, tail erect, dipping his head for a scratch behind the ears.

We named him Ez — short for the Hotel Esmeralda — and we didn’t mind at all when he wanted to accompany us on a hike.

We thought Ez would join us for a little while, then turn back home. He, however, had other plans.

Ez stuck by us along the trail, guarding us against dropoff edges, protecting us, as loyal and true as Lassie.

Each time I wheezed up a hill, Ez patiently waited for me to arrive.

Though he did occasionally run ahead to cool off his hot paws.

Through coca fields and countryside, under waterfalls and patches of jungle, we walked and walked. And so did Ez.

We ended up several miles and many hours from where we started. Deborah and I agreed that if we got a taxi to bring us back to our hostel, we would only go if they would bring Ez too.

The road was dry and desolate, though, and no taxis could be found.

Our hiking boots started to drag as we headed back toward our hostel on the main road. Still no cab.

Eventually we realized there was no Ez either. We looked around, called his name, waited a few minutes. Still no sign of our devoted hiking companion.

We don’t know if Ez found a shortcut back to the hotel or just wanted to take a break. I like to think he stumbled across someone else who needed his company more than we did.

Wherever he is, I hope Ez found a grand adventure — and a sunny road home.

 

Do drink the water

August 13, 2010

Our entire trip has come with warnings and ominous advice — including the well-worn refrain of “Don’t drink the water.”

Everybody has told me this, in one variation or another.

Don’t drink the water. Don’t use the ice. Don’t brush your teeth with water from the tap. Don’t let water from the shower splash your face. Don’t consume blended margaritas. Don’t wash fruit with water from the tap. Don’t eat the fruit that has been grown using the water that you should not be drinking in the first place.

Excellent advice except … I still need water.

Buying many bottles of water per day is expensive and not very eco-friendly. And the chemical drops and pills designed to treat the water are impractical and not a decent long-term solution. Plus, they taste bad.

That’s why the most important thing in my backpack is my SteriPEN.

It’s about the size and shape of a highlighter marker, so it’s extremely light and compact. I can easily stow it away in my daypack or purse when I’m on the go.

To use, I simply press a button, an ultraviolet light comes on, and I stir the pen into the water. Just 90 seconds later — PRESTO! — I’m the proud owner of one liter of fresh, safe water.

I have The Adventurer model, which comes with a solar battery charger — so I’ll never be stuck without access to clean water, no matter where I am in the world.

So far I’ve used my SteriPEN all over the Amazon, through rural Bolivia, even on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, where our guides confirmed the water contained cryptosporidium (aka one of the nasty buggers that will sock you right in the intestines). With my SteriPEN in hand, I was confident that I could purify the water and remain healthy — and I was right.

I firmly believe that this trip would be next-to-impossible to do without a SteriPEN. And that’s something I’d say even if they weren’t one of our sponsors.

I’ll probably even carry the SteriPEN with me once I return home, since some water sources can be pretty dodgy. (I distinctly remember one water fountain at LAX that tasted like mold and poison.) I also think it makes a valuable addition to my earthquake kit.

SteriPENs range in price from about $60 for the small emergency version to $100 for the heftier models. (Extra batteries and solar charging kits cost extra). Purchase through an online retailer like Amazon.com, or visit an outdoor goods store, like REI.

Find out more about the product at their website.

 

Kids in the Amazon

August 9, 2010

The best travel moments happen when you least expect them.

That’s what I learned when my husband and I made an excursion to the village of  Manco Capac, situated on an island in the Amazon River.

Our intention was to spend the morning strolling through the tiny town, getting a brief glimpse of village life. We had no expectations and no plans.

Then we stumbled on to a school just as the children were getting ready for their Independence Day parade.

The kids immediately crowded around us, tugging at our clothes, smiling shyly, pulling us into their classrooms. They all wanted their photos taken and loved seeing the digital image displayed right back at them.

When the parade started, someone grabbed a couple of chairs, setting them up where we’d have the best vantage point for viewing the festivities. The teacher told the kids to sing extra loud for their special guests, and he motioned to us.

The kids acted out the story of the liberation of Peru, then marched all over the schoolyard, waving tissue paper flags.

It was one of those things that could never be replicated for any tour, and you’d never read about it in a guidebook. But that brief morning with the kids — laughing and singing and hugging — was one of the happiest, most genuine travel experiences I’ve ever had.