Pyramids. They’re every bit as awesome as you’d expect.
Temples, hieroglyphs and things older than Jesus.
Wonderful hikes, camel rides, diving and exploring, all with stunning scenery.
Dahab, a tiny slice of heaven at the Red Sea and my personal version of paradise. This is where I am resting, healing and getting strong again.
THE BAD
Smog, pollution and garbage everywhere. (This one is mostly directed at you, Cairo.) Also questionable sanitary conditions.
Constant harassment from vendors who won’t take no for an answer. My husband and I were tricked, followed, even physically assaulted by vendors. It’s exhausting, and it’s what tainted some experiences that should have been magical.
Aggressive men. The sexist and inappropriate behavior goes way beyond catcalls. I have been groped, slapped, smacked and fondled. Men deliberately walk into me and paw at my chest, grab my ass, reach between my legs. (Keep in mind that I have also been dressing modestly in pants, long-sleeve shirts and a scarf around my hair.)
Blatant ripoffs. For instance, the menus at restaurants often list a price in Arabic numbers, which is half as much as the inflated tourist price.
Bribes, payoffs and corruption. For instance, it is strictly forbidden to touch the Great Pyramid of Giza. So when I got close to it and a policeman ran up to me, I put my hands in the air and backed away to make it clear that I wasn’t doing anything wrong. The policeman said, “You want to touch it?” I said no. He urged me to put my hands on it. Again, I shook my head no. Finally he said, “You can touch it. It’s OK — just give me baksheesh.” (i.e. a tip.)
THE UGLY
A terrible incident took place when my husband and I toured a temple on Elephantine Island.
A security guard ushered my husband and I into the temple ruins. Then he separated the two of us. He forced my husband to go with a guide into another part of the temple, then he pushed me into a secluded corner. Before I could comprehend what was happening, the guard nudged his gun against my hip and tried to smash his rotten teeth against my mouth. I firmly said, “No!” but he tried again. I slid away and managed to avoid him until I was reunited with my husband.
Afterward, both the guard and the guide wanted a tip, which we ultimately shelled out just to get rid of them.
So yeah. That right there had me longing for the ladies car on the subway — and sad that I felt that way.
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