There is a thin line between total magnificence and utter tackiness, and the Mysore Palace walks it.
The palace is the former residence of the Maharaja, built in 1897, following a fire that destroyed the old wooden palace. In this incarnation, the ground floor alone takes up nearly 3.5 acres, containing marble floors, carved pillars, ornate domes, mirrors and gilded colonnades.
Most everything is the color of cupcake frosting, with stacks of lemony layers topped by gumdrop red domes. At night, all of the buildings sparkle with zillions of white fairy lights.
Photography is forbidden inside the building, so I took notes to walk you through it instead.
Our tour begins in a doll pavilion, displaying toys that were given to the Maharaja as gifts. Ninety percent of the dolls are completely creepy and will haunt my dreams for all time.
Next is the peacock-themed marriage pavilion, where all royal weddings took place. Cast iron pillars are shaped to curl like feathers, soaring toward the high ceiling. Above, a dome explodes in rainbow-colored stained glass, framed by golden carvings of delicate flowers. Elephant paintings parade around the room, and some pieces are framed by massive (and real) elephant tusks.
A marble staircase leads to a grand hall, where teakwood doors are shaped like teardrops. The room is one arch after another, enough to make me lose count after 15. This is where the Maharaja would present himself to his people. Three layers of balconies contained royal family members and visiting dignitaries, while the common folk gathered on the ground.
The top half of the walls are covered in lavish oil paintings by famed Indian artists. The bottom of the walls are elaborated tiled in green, pink, yellow and Tiffany blue. Strewn across the ceiling are nature scenes with lions, antelope, tigers and elephants dancing in between depictions of Vishnu incarnations. The arches are practically overturned Lucky Charms boxes, boasting pink hearts, yellow stars, green clovers and blue diamonds — plus mauve flowers, golden sunbursts and silver moons.
If it sounds like a mess, it kind of is — but it’s also decadent and ridiculous enough to work. Think Marie Antoinette served up with a dose of masala chai.
Marvelously tacky and proud of it.
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