Rock the cats-bah

November 12, 2012

One thing I did not expect about Morocco: Kitties everywhere!

That’s because cats hold a special place in Islam, as they are considered to be clean and pure of spirit. Muhammad is said to have loved his cat so much that he would do without his cloak rather than disturb a cat that was sleeping on it.

But Morocco takes that one step further. Their felines own the medinas. They are perched above restaurant terraces. They prowl the dark alleyways of the souks. And they have their pick of fish scraps and soft places to nap. Look up in the souk and you’re sure to see tiny paws on the tent fabric strung up above you — an army of cats making their own route through the crazy and chaotic bazaar.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, I am that tourist — the one who travels to far-flung places to take photos of cats. Shut up.

Wondering why I didn’t take any photos of dogs? Well, they are not so plentiful in Morocco. I’ve seen maybe five dogs total, including these two pups.

PHOTOS: Pretty Portugal

November 5, 2012

I’ve met a lot of travelers, and I read a lot of travel blogs. Half the people I follow on Twitter have something to do with travel, and travel memoirs make up the bulk of my personal library. So how come I’m just now discovering that Portugal is a big, shiny gem?

I HAVE NO IDEA.

Although I’m excited to travel anywhere, I can’t say Portugal was at the top of my must-see list. But I am so thankful I made it here. This country has blown me away with fairytale palaces, magnificent landscapes and an exceptional history of explorers, artists and dreamers. I’m grateful I had the opportunity to make it part of this European road trip

Unfortunately I only have a short time here — I’m headed back to Spain tomorrow — but it was enough to move Portugal to the top of my must-return list.

Here’s the Fortaleza do Guincho, a 17th century fortress that has been turned into a magnificent hotel.

 

The Moorish Castle. The stairs here helped me burn off the bowl of olives I ate for lunch.

 

The spectacular view from Hotel Trivoli in Sintra.

 

Reflection in a tuk tuk mirror during a tour of Sintra. (The tuk tuks were made by Vespa and very chic. They are an ideal way to comfortably cover a lot of ground on Sintra’s winding, hillside roads.)

 

Refilling my water bottle with some of Portugal’s crisp, delicious agua.

 

Hillside near Sintra.

 

Yet another gorgeous castle.

 

Beautiful buildings dot the hillsides.

 

An arch going to Pena Palace.

 

Doorway outside of Pena Palace.

 

King Neptune looks angry.

 

Public water fountain on the street.

 

Cabo de Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe. The coastline reminded me of California.

 

Lisbon after dark.

Maggie Dreams of Writing

September 19, 2012

The other night my husband and I watched a spare and elegant documentary called “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” It’s the story of 85-year-old Jiro Ono, owner of the Michelin 3-star restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo. Although he is already considered to be one of the world’s greatest sushi chefs, Jiro wants to perfect the art form and elevate the delicacy to new heights.  His quest becomes an obsession, to the point where Jiro even dreams of sushi.

 

Of course, the film isn’t just about the sushi. I paused the movie and asked my husband if he feels a similar obsession for his profession.

“Do you dream about teaching?” I asked.

“All the time,” he said. “Do you dream about writing?”

“I do. Scenes and characters and things I haven’t even written yet.”

“When you worked for newspapers, did you ever dream about journalism?” he said.

“Yes. But only in the nightmare way.”

And that’s right about the time I had a writing epiphany. Because when I pressed play and the film started up again, Jiro looked directly into the camera and said, “I fell in love with my work and devoted my life to it.”

 

Now, I’ve always heard the old cliché, “It’s not work if you love what you do.” But Jiro’s take on it is slightly different.

When Jiro says “fall in love with your work,” he isn’t talking about having a strong affection for your chosen career path. This is a matter of loyalty. It’s doing this thing for richer or poorer, in sickness and in health, as long as you live. Jiro fell in love, and he made a lifetime commitment — the guy has been creating sushi since age 10, and I bet making sushi will be the last thing he ever does.

For me personally, that means putting my ass in the chair and writing, even when the mail brings me nothing but rejection letters, even when I’m scrounging for grocery money, even when I wonder why I bother. It means standing by writing’s side, even when she is a nagging whorebeast who refuses to do the dishes.

It means that I’ve already made the commitment — I quit the only career I’ve ever known; I sent myself back to school to learn more about the craft; I’m giving myself ample time and opportunity to write. Now it’s time to see it through. No more messing around. If I’m going to be putting my ass in the chair anyway, don’t I owe it to myself to be the best possible writer I can be?

Sounds so simple. But, then again, so does sushi. And Jiro’s been working on that for 75 years.

 

Later in the film, a Japanese food critic ticks off the five attributes that separate great chefs from average chefs. I believe these attributes could apply to anyone, no matter the field.

1. “They take their work very seriously and consistently perform at the highest level.” — Strive for excellence, which requires unyielding focus and determination. Sacrifices must be made.

2. “They aspire to improve their skills.” — There is always room to learn something about your craft. The day Jiro received an award that declared him to be a national Japanese treasure, do you know what he did? He returned to work.

3. “Cleanliness. ‘If the restaurant doesn’t feel clean, the food isn’t going to taste good.'” — Keep it simple. You want your readers/customers to focus on the thing they showed up to do — and they’re here to savor your work.

4. “They are better leaders than collaborators. They’re stubborn and insist on having it their way.” — Trust your instincts. Don’t accept substitutes for your vision.

5. “Finally, a great chef is passionate.” — Fall in love with your work every single day, all over again. Wine her, dine her and slip her the tongue. It’s your job to make this relationship work.

Travel, ‘The Way’ & talking politics on a Ugandan street corner

August 11, 2012

 

“Your George Bush had it right,” said John. His voice was deep and dark as blackstrap molasses.

“Whoa,” I said. “He is not my George Bush.”

John was a stranger. Just someone who offered to sit with me for a soda.

The table between us was flimsy red plastic, bleached pink by the sun. A nearby vendor sold sachets of drinking water. Salespeople squatted near sacks of potatoes. The air trembled from the sound of voices, feet, traffic.

 

“I mean to say, the George Bush of your country knows how to be a leader.”

“Oh?”

The concrete sidewalks were packed so thick with orange dust, you’d think they were dirt. A constant stream of scooters flowed down the street.

“Yes, George W. Bush knows the quickest way to make people happy and safe is to take away freedom,” John said. “He gives the people no choices.”

“I like having choices.”

“You Americans,” he shook his head. “The problem is that you have too much freedom.”

John tilted his chair, balanced on the two back legs. He lifted a glass bottle to his mouth and took a mighty swig of Coca-Cola. He swallowed audibly, then let out a long, “Ahhhh …”

I laughed. A Ugandan man giving me his take on America’s problems, pausing to take a big gulp from the most American of drinks. It couldn’t have been scripted better.

 

It was one of those moments that makes traveling worthwhile. The intersection of two human lives. An honest conversation over a plastic table. Looking at my own world from a dramatically different perspective.

John really did make me examine my thoughts about George W. Bush. He made me wonder how someone could come to this conclusion — that removing choice is an efficient way of keeping people happy — and see that as a positive thing. I struggled to understand John’s point of view, and he made an effort to understand mine. It led to a richer, layered and ultimately memorable conversation about what happened in our lives to shape our belief systems.

The other day I watched “The Way,” a movie written and directed by Emilio Estevez, who is also the center of the film. He plays a backpacker who dies on El Camino de Santiago, an 800-kilometer pilgrimage route through France and Spain. His father (Martin Sheen, appropriately) ends up making the trek his son never completed. Along the way he meets an unusual cast of characters. An overweight, jovial Dutchman. An Irish writer in search of a cure for writer’s block. A secretive and brash Canadian. The hikers quickly become friends, because that’s what travel does to people — it’s a unifier. It tosses strangers together and turns them into friends. It pushes the fast-forward button on relationships.

Being wildly out of place makes everyone vulnerable. And that vulnerable spot is exactly where the transitions occur.

 

Travel breaks down language into the most simple terms. There is no pretense, nothing to hide and nothing to lose. It is popping open a vein and letting the truth spill out because the very next day you could be 3,000 miles away. It is everything the internet is supposed to be and often is not.

It means that a light conversation over a shared soda can transform into the deep, unsettling questions that actually matter: Who are you? What do you believe? What made you that way? Where do you belong? Somehow, some way, a sun-bleached plastic table is found to meet in the space in between.

It’s what I miss most about backpacking, and it makes me yearn to get back on the road. Had John posted these thoughts on Facebook, I wouldn’t hesitate to unfriend him. But in front of me, he was a challenging and interesting composite. I didn’t agree with his views, but I respected them and I took time to try to understand them. I don’t think I do that now with people in my own country, and it’s something I’m working hard to change.

 

 

Help me choose my glasses!

August 7, 2012

My collection of five home try-on frames arrived from Warby Parker!

I’m almost as excited as this dude. Heyyyy!

 

Glasses always look weird on my oversized moon face, but I have to say I’m pleasantly surprised by these Warby Parkers. One pair was absolutely not right for me, but the other four actually look pretty okay.

 

So which ones do you like the best? I am unable to look at my own face and tell. (And whoa, I look INTENSE in those photos. Or maybe I’m just THAT fierce.)

Am I Tina Fey yet?

 

The thing about Warby Parker is that they have almost TOO many great options to choose from. Like those frames I’m wearing on the top left? They also come in this slinkster cool clear.

Also, their glasses are just $95 flat. That’s far better than the deal I was getting at my optometrist’s office, where he was constantly trying to upsell me like some used car dealer. Even when I didn’t go for extra-thin lenses, 10 kinds of coatings, additional warranties and whatnot, somehow I always got stuck with a $300+ bill for new glasses anyway. And that’s with insurance.

Best of all, for every pair you buy, Warby Parker donates a pair to someone in need. Stylish AND charitable? Yes, please!

Leave a comment below and tell me which ones I should order.