Chasing rest and relaxation in Zanzibar

September 2, 2023

I couldn’t go all the way to Tanzania without making a side trip to Zanzibar, an archipelago boasting white sugar-sand beaches, lush forests, and turquoise water.

So after I summited Mount Kilimanjaro, I made the quick hop from mainland Arusha to Unguja Island, Zanzibar, a zippy flight that took about 90 minutes.

Zanzibar instantly did something to me. You know the sensation of wearing tightly tied hiking boots for a long time — and them taking them off? The loosened laces, the heaviness falling away, the blood rushing back. That’s what landing in Zanzibar felt like. An unbinding.

On arrival

I wasn’t interested in staying at a party hostel or bustling town, which why my first stop was Pongwe Bay Resort, perched along a shimmery teal bay near sleepy fishing villages and seaweed farms. My goal here was to unwind, which I find difficult to do when I travel. I’m usually the person who will try every activity a hotel offers, wander the area for miles, and have a long list to sights to see.

This trip, however, I knew I needed rest and recovery. The steep descent on Kilimanjaro left my feet battered and bruised. My bones ached from sleeping on the mountain. I had been cold for days; a mere 48 hours earlier, my tears were frozen to my cheeks. What I needed was comfort and quiet.

Pongwe promised nothing but sunshine, flowers, gentle ocean waves. The most popular sightseeing spot is a small, fine-dining restaurant located on its own teensy island. It sounded perfect.

I had been so focused on Kili, though, that I was ill-prepared for the Zanzibar part of my trip. I hadn’t packed any beachwear or footwear beyond hiking boots. And while I assumed I could pick up some budget-friendly flip flops and sundresses along the way, I didn’t have a chance to stop anywhere between the airport and hotel.

Was I going to be miserable?

So this is heaven

When I saw the remote location of the resort, I imagined myself clunking around a tropical paradise in my stinky boots. Then the proprietor of the place intervened.

“Just so you know, this is a no-shoes resort,” said the owner, a handsome Italian man. “All of our paths are made of soft sand or cool stone, so please do not wear shoes anywhere.”

As if that wasn’t amazing enough, I arrived at 9 a.m., well before the 3 p.m. check-in. However, my room was already ready.

“Unless you want breakfast …?” the owner said.

I did want breakfast, because I had to leave my other hotel at 4 a.m. and hadn’t had time to eat. But I don’t like spending money on a hotel breakfast, which tends to be overpriced and underwhelming.

“You know you booked a room that includes food, right?” the owner said. My stomach rumbled in response. He gestured to a room adjacent to the dining area, filled with buffet tables covered with luscious fruits and homemade dishes.

I was already about to weep with joy when he added, “We’re running a special right now on massages. Seventy-five minutes for $40. Let me know if you’d like to book anything.”

Yes. Yes, I would be booking something.

The owner confirmed that I was only staying one night and asked what time I’d be checking out.

“Checkout is usually at 10, but nobody has the room booked after you, so you can stay as long as you’d like,” he smiled. I thanked the man profusely, and I apologized that I’d only booked one night.

He shrugged, “So you must live this one day to the very fullest.”

•••

I Went to Cirque Du Soleil For the First Time. Here’s What It Was Like.

September 1, 2023

I’ve been interested in Cirque du Soleil ever since the company was founded in 1984. But I honestly never thought I’d see Cirque for a few reasons: 1. The performances usually take place in large cities. 2. I don’t tend to see shows when I travel. 3. I am very bad at making plans. (I once tried to buy same-day tickets to see LOVE in Las Vegas. It was Valentine’s Day, so … yeah. I struck out harder than my freshman year homecoming date.)

This time, however, was different. This time Cirque came to me.

For a very limited time, the touring production of Cortéo is appearing at Palm Desert’s Acrisure Arena, and I had an opportunity to attend on opening night.

Written by Daniele Finzi Pasca, founder of the Swiss clown troupe Teatro Sunil, Cortéo is the story of an Italian clown named Mauro who watches his own funeral procession. Beginning with Mauro’s deathbed, the procession unspools into a carnival atmosphere with dreamy scenes that look back at childhood memories but also take the viewer into otherworldly, ethereal realms.

First off, I’ll admit that I was nervous about taking my 9-year-old son to the show, since he is a vibrating ball of existential dread. I wondered how Cortéo would tackle mortality and how the show would present concepts of death/ the afterlife. I worried it would leave us feeling melancholy or distressed.

Would it be scary?

Worse, would the clowns be creepy?

Now I can firmly say my biggest worry is that my son will run off and join the circus. He was CAPTIVATED.

“This is so joyful,” he whispered as the performers leaped from one oversized bed to another, showing off gravity-defying acrobatic skills.

“Please don’t be joyful at home,” I whispered back. His bed doesn’t have good springs.

Photo: Cirque du Soleil

I also didn’t know if a circus would feel relevant today, when we have access to so much and can watch fantastical stories with jaw-dropping special effects on our own screens. In an era of AI, what did acrobats, aerialists, and some Italian clowns have to offer?

Well, I don’t want to give it all away, in case you end up seeing Cortéo yourself, but I was surprised and delighted. The show was far funnier than I expected but also weirder, like a Fellini fever dream. There were big, remarkable moments with gymnasts in spinning hoops and aerialists on swinging chandeliers (“That is not safe,” my son said). But the small, quieter scenes made an impact too.

I appreciated the innovative use of the set in its entirety — the trap doors and swooping angels, the balloonist who floated above the audience, the trampoline that ran the length of the stage and seemed like a runway to something beyond this world. It felt both grand and intimate, a real marvel.

Then there were the performers who were so strong and skillful, they seemed to be some other magnificent species entirely. Watching them was like gazing at Beyoncé, like, are you sure we’re all humans here?

Of course, they are human. And that’s key to why Cirque resonated for me and won me over.

It’s not just that Cirque is good despite not having special effects — it’s good because it doesn’t have special effects. At a time when reality is increasingly virtual, here was something real. Here was something alive, (albeit wrapped up in a story about death).

For me, the magic of Cirque lies in the fact that it is wildly human, and what they’ve created in Cortéo embodies life in all its beauty, power, and absurdity.

And when it all comes to an end, let’s hope we go in a cloud of glitter too.

This sweet treat was born in Chicago

August 30, 2023

You might think you don’t care about the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893, which was held in Chicago.

But let me tell you about some of the now-cherished items that debuted there: Cream of Wheat, Juicy Fruit gum, the chocolate bar (Hershey’s), Aunt Jemima Pancakes, the #2 yellow pencil, Shredded Wheat, the automatic dishwasher, Cracker Jacks, the zipper, Ferris wheels.

Also America’s first serial killer.

Right. We could’ve done without that last thing.

One of my favorite books, The Devil in the White City by Erik Larson, delves into that World’s Fair and how it profoundly changed the country. The inventions! The murders! The new foods! The murders! Zippers! More murders!

It’s a gripping and wildly informative read, and it’s also a master class in nonfiction that reads like fiction.

What does all this have to do with a sweet treat?

Well, I was recently in Chicago with my high school girlfriends. As we walked around downtown, we passed by a place that sounded familiar from the book: the Palmer House Hotel.

I pulled my friends inside, not just because it’s a grand building …

And not just because it’s infused with historic details, like Mark Twain’s gallon-sized beer stein, and ostentatious lamps …

but because this is a place in food history!

Palmer House is where the brownie was invented.

As the story goes, the dessert was inspired by socialite Bertha Palmer, who was married to Potter Palmer, the millionaire owner of the hotel. She chaired the ladies’ board for the World’s Fair and tasked the hotel pastry chef with creating something that would be easy to box up and transport to the festival grounds.

Voila, the chef dreamed up brownies! (Although they weren’t called that until 1898, when they appeared in a Sears Roebuck catalog.)

The Palmer House confection is not quite to my taste, as I’m more of a crunchy edge brownie person, and this one has a gooey, fudge-like consistency. But hey, we need both kinds of brownie eaters in this world.

If you want to try it yourself, here’s the recipe. More than a century old, it’s the same one they use today.

The pink places of your Barbiecore dreams in Palm Springs (and beyond!)

July 12, 2023

Barbiecore is having a moment, with bubblegum hues showing up everywhere from red carpet fashion to home interiors. But even before the Barbie movie was a twinkle in Margot Robbie’s eye, some of the best spots to stay, eat, and play were already flush with flamingo — and there’s no better time than now to see them.

So put the top down on your Barbie Corvette, don your rose-colored glasses, and hit the open road for the most bubblegum pink places in Southern California. First stop, Palm Springs!

Tickled Pink in Greater Palm Springs

The Trixie Motel • Forget Disneyland, this pink dream owned by drag icon Trixie Mattel is the happiest place on earth.

Les Cactus • A boutique hotel that looks like the stylish cousin of the Barbie Dreamhouse.

La Boisson • This ultra-cool Palm Springs speakeasy at Fleur Noire Hotel is tucked behind pink doors and serves mostly rosé champagne.

The Pink Cabana • This elegant restaurant and bar in Indian Wells is perfect for a sophisticated brunch or chic girls’ night out.

That Pink Door • The sleek millennial pink entryway at 1100 East Sierra Way is probably the most photographed door in Palm Springs. (Stick to the sidewalk and be respectful of the owners, of course.)

In the Pink Beyond PS

La Valencia Hotel • This posh hotel is probably better known as “the pink lady of La Jolla.”

Pink Rose Cafe • You’ll be pretty in pink at this La Mesa cafe where the pink lattes are accessorized with pink rose petals.

Madonna Inn • An over-the-top institution in San Luis Obispo, this hotel is known for its themed rooms and for being very, very pink.

Hello Kitty Grand Cafe — Cool cats will love this super cute cafe in Irvine that serves up cookies, cakes, and Hello Kitty merch.

Beverly Hills Hotel • The famed pink palace in Beverly Hills that inspired my friend’s book, The Pink Hotel.

Summer camp for life skills

June 28, 2023
Close-up of a person's hand writing a list

A mom in Utah recently made headlines after creating what she calls “How to Be a Person” camp for her children. She curated a wide-ranging list of things she’d like her kids to learn this summer — everything from blowdrying hair to how to wash and cut produce.

I’m a list-maker by nature, so the concept was instantly appealing. (I did, however, balk at the name. I know a lot of neurodivergent folks, and I don’t want to imply that there’s only one way to be a person or that not possessing these skills makes one an inferior person.)

So I sat down with my 8-year-old son, Everest, and we created a list of things to learn this summer.

I highly recommend collaborating on the list, because I was shocked by how many things Everest wanted to know, I simply haven’t given him the opportunity to learn yet. Things like following a recipe or putting clothes in the dryer.

Other items on the list address things E has tried but hasn’t mastered, like double-knotting his shoelaces. This is his chance to practice.

We’re calling it Everest’s Life Skills Summer Camp, and he’s really looking forward to tackling each item. So I think I found a way to successfully pawn off the laundry on my kid? *fist pumps the air*

Here’s what’s on our list

I’m curious what else you might add? (Keep in mind that something like this is going to vary wildly by the child, their environment, and their family, so I don’t think this is a one-size-fits-all situation.)

Double-knot shoelaces

Address an envelope

Make a simple meal 

Memorize social security number

Use a screwdriver

Hammer a nail

Load the dishwasher

Wash and dry a load of clothes

Use a sharp knife 

Follow a recipe

Memorize mommy’s phone number

Call for help

Simple first aid 

Floss well 

Order politely at a restaurant

Figure out a tip  

Clean the bathroom

Microwave food without blowing anything up

Change batteries 

Change a lightbulb 

Use leftover food/transform leftovers 

Write a grocery list 

Offer a genuine compliment 

Graciously accept a compliment 

Make a sincere apology

So tell me: What do you consider to be essential life skills?