Maggie Ink

52 Hikes, Part 4: Family-friendly hiking in Southern California

May 4, 2021

In January I set a goal of hiking 52 different trails with my family in 2021, and we’re totally crushing it. You can read Part 1 here, Part 2 here, and Part 3 here.

That brings us to April and hikes 27-31. The temperature has been rising in our desert, and I’m scared of rattlesnakes, so we ventured beyond Palm Springs for this month’s trails.

Keep in mind:
• I say these hikes are “family-friendly,” meaning they were good for my family. They are not necessarily stroller accessible or toddler-friendly.
• I’m strategic about when I go. Some popular trails get heavy traffic throughout the day, and I don’t like being on trails with a lot of people, so I usually head out very early.
• Don’t take my distance as gospel. Hiking with a 6-year-old child involves a fair amount of wandering, so your mileage might vary.
• Do check a website like AllTrails for current trail conditions. I always look the map to get an idea of the terrain, and I read the most recent comments for any relevant info.
• I know covid restrictions are loosening, but I still bring a mask along and put it on when I encounter others on the trail.

Potato Chip Rock, Poway • 4.2 miles

Potato Chip Rock has been on my personal California bucket list for a while now, and we finally did it!

There are two trails to reach the summit. The Mt. Woodson Trail is 7.3 miles, boasts a more gradual climb, and is supposedly more picturesque. We opted for the steeper, shorter route to get up and down before the heat of the day. And it was still a gorgeous hike!

There was definitely a point where the path felt almost too steep for me to go on. And that’s when I noticed another hiker holding a pudgy Basset Hound — and I figured if someone else can make it up a mountain while CARRYING A DOG, I can do it sans hound.

Red Dome, Whitewater • 4.5 miles

Wildflowers and striking views along a gentle segment of the Pacific Crest Trail? Yes, please.

Also this hike ends at the rocky banks of the Whitewater River, surrounded by textured canyon walls. The water is always frigid, and I soaked my feet until they were numb.

49 Palms Oasis, Joshua Tree National Park • 3.2 miles

I can’t believe I’ve lived in the desert for so long, and this was my first time doing the 49 Palms trail, located in a section of the park I’ve never seen before.

This was a quick, moderate trail (a few Marines in weighted vests were running it), and the payoff is a lush palm oasis where it feels like you’re the only person on earth

Canyon View Loop, Whitewater • 4 miles

Another hike I regret not having done before. It was a fairly quick ascent up the wildflower-carpeted canyon, followed by some incredible views of the valley below. This is a real showcase of desert beauty.

La Quinta Cove to Lake Cahuilla loop, La Quinta • 6.6 miles

Okay, I know I sound like a broken record, but this is another place I never visited before my hiking challenge. (I’m starting to wonder if I ever did anything before this year? Where did I go? It’s weird that I’m seeing more of where I live now, during a pandemic, than I ever did before.)

I’ve heard that Lake Cahuilla is usually crowded, but on the morning we hiked there, it was the perfect place to stop for a snack break. The trees provided a cool, shady spot to rest, and it was so quiet, we could hear birds’ wings flapping.

The hike back was a slog, because a large portion of it is through a soft, sandy wash with a gradual uphill, and hiking in sand sucks. But we felt very accomplished when it was over.

52 hikes, part 3: Family-friendly hiking in Palm Springs and more

May 2, 2021

For 2021, I set a goal of taking 52 different hikes with my family. You can read Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

That brings us to March! The most exciting thing about this month was that we ventured out of the area for a quick road trip. More on that below.

Here are the 7 hikes we did this month.

Keep in mind:
• I say these hikes are “family-friendly,” meaning they were good for my family. They are not necessarily stroller accessible or toddler-friendly.
• I’m strategic about when I go. Some popular trails get heavy traffic throughout the day, and I don’t like being on trails with a lot of people.
• Don’t take my distance as gospel. Hiking with a 6-year-old child involves a fair amount of wandering, so your mileage might vary.
• Do check a website like AllTrails for current trail conditions. I always look the map to get an idea of the terrain, and I read the most recent comments for any relevant info.
• I always bring a mask along and put it on when I encounter others on the trail.

Indio Badlands, Indio • 5.5 miles

This hike made me thankful for the 52 Hikes challenge, because I never would have done this trail otherwise — and I would have missed out on one of the most stunning areas in the Coachella Valley.

Don’t let the first boring mile fool you. After a bit of mediocre trail, the scenery becomes incredibly dramatic with interesting geological features and some sweeping views of mountains and agricultural areas.

Big Morongo Preserve (combo of four trails), Morongo Valley • 2.5 miles

I’ve been having issues with my lower back, and on this particular day it was acting up. I still wanted to get outside, though, so we patched together portions of four trails that didn’t have a huge elevation gain.

No matter which trail you take here, they’re all winners. Plus the preserve has been recognized as an “important bird area” by many organizations, and I often see deer. Somehow I always *just* miss seeing the bobcats, but someday …

South Lykken (trailhead at Oswit Canyon), Palm Springs • 2.3 miles

The steep climb pays off with great views of Palm Springs and a lot of little hilltops to explore. (We only went as far as the picnic tables at the summit, but the trail links up to other parts of Lykken, so this hike can be much, much longer.)

Also we saw bighorn sheep near the trailhead, which is the first time I’ve ever seen them in the low part of the canyon.

Museum Trail, Palm Springs • 2.1 miles

Challenging and beautiful, but crowded. It had been a long time since I’ve done this one, though, and I was delighted to find a pull-up bar near the picnic tables.

To be clear, I can’t really do a pull-up. I just like surprises.

Bike Trails (East), Cathedral City • 2.1 miles

Not very picturesque or fun. On the plus side, we didn’t encounter any other hikers, so it was nice to be in a quiet, still space.

Fiscalini Ranch Preserve, Cambria • 4.2 miles

Spring break! We took a quick road trip to Cambria and stayed at a motel across the street from Moonstone Beach, where we spent every evening picking up cool rocks and watching the sunset. It was glorious.

One of the best days I’ve had in recent memory was spent at Fiscalini Ranch Preserve. The trail we did had a little bit of everything, from evergreen forest to coastal bluffs, back to evergreens again. Highly recommend.

Boucher Trail, San Simeon • 3.75 miles

If you’re driving the Pacific Coast Highway, carve time out of your schedule for this easy but stunning hike.

It begins at an elephant seal overlook and winds through wetlands, grassland, and fields of wildflowers to the Piedras Blancas lighthouse. All the while, you have the most jaw-dropping views of the Pacific.

The best part is that it offers seal viewing areas that are far from the crowds. So if peering down at fat, funny seals is your thing (it’s definitely my thing), this is the trail for you.

52 Hikes, Part 2: Covid-safe family hiking in Palm Springs (and beyond!)

February 28, 2021

This year I set a goal of taking 52 different hikes with my family. You can read Part 1 here, which is about our 11 hikes in January.

That brings us to February, one of the best hiking months in Palm Springs. It’s post-holidays, so the trails aren’t crawling with people, and it’s pre-summer, so the trails aren’t crawling with rattlesnakes. Perfection!

Here are the 8 hikes we did this month.

Keep in mind:
• These hikes are family-friendly, meaning they were good for my family. They are not necessarily stroller accessible or toddler-friendly.
• I’m strategic about when and where I hike. Some popular trails get heavy traffic throughout the day, and I don’t feel comfortable on narrow paths with people who might not be wearing masks. So I go early or late.
• Don’t take my distance as gospel. Hiking with a 6-year-old child involves a fair amount of wandering, so your mileage might vary.
• Do check check a website like AllTrails for current trail conditions. I always look the map to get an idea of the terrain, and I read the most recent comments for any relevant info.
• Please wear a mask when you encounter others on the trail.

North Lykken to Falls View, Palm Springs • 6 miles

We accessed this via the trailhead on Cielo Road, which is located in my favorite Palm Springs neighborhood. From here the journey appears so charming and not at all like the brutal killer it is.

I kid. Kind of.

After a quick but steep climb, the trail leads you through Chino Canyon, which is an isolated and tranquil part of Palm Springs. It’s particularly dreamy when wildflowers are in bloom and the whole canyon looks like a screensaver.

Okay, here’s the killer part: The hike was pleasant out through the canyon but surprisingly strenuous on the return. I partially attribute this to a lack of snacks and an unseasonably warm February day, but wow. Just watch out for that. We should have turned back long before I turned into a hangry goblin.

Lake Calavera Loop, Oceanside • 4.3 miles

We spent Presidents’ Day weekend in a remote yurt, which was wonderful and gave us new places to explore.

I really loved this trail system because it was a great mix of well-maintained, easy trails and wilderness with rock scrambling and overgrown parts. Also you can’t beat the excellent view from the top.

However, so few people were wearing masks that I wondered if Oceanside had defeated the virus and didn’t tell anyone.

The trail had heavy traffic at the beginning and end, but we were able to maintain good distance on offshoot trails in between.

Los Jilgueros Loop, Fallbrook • 1.2 miles

A quick loop around a sweet nature preserve. It seemed to be a popular place for birders.

Roadrunner/Chuckwalla Loop, Rancho Mirage • 3.1 miles

A picturesque trail system that ambles through the mountains around the Ritz Carlton — a five-star view for free!

Aside: We didn’t make that rock heart that you see in the photo, because I teach Everest to leave only footprints. But he was happy to stumble upon it!

Araby Trail, Palm Springs • 3 miles

This trail takes you past the Bob Hope home, a mushroomy modernist masterpiece, and into the hills beyond the residence. It’s so fun, especially in the spring when the hills are lush and verdant. Also it holds some surprises. I won’t spoil them for you.

Continue toward Berns Trail Lookout for a longer loop, which we did not do.

North Lykken Loop, Palm Springs • 1.4 miles

There are a lot of ways to access the Lykken in Palm Springs. For this hike, we used the trailhead on Ramon Road, and it was an entirely different experience than the North Lykken loop we hiked earlier in the month.

My son had such a great time here, because there were dozens of offshoot trails to explore, outcroppings to climb, and plenty of adventures to be had. Plus there are spectacular views of downtown Palm Springs throughout. We didn’t cover much distance, but we spent a few hours having the best time.

We could have continued this hike north, where it meets up with the Museum Trail. Instead we followed the map on AllTrails to make this a true loop, ascending via the steep dirt trail and returning on the stone “road.”

South Lykken, Palm Springs • 3.6 miles

I personally refer to this as Middle Lykken, because there’s another South Lykken trailhead at Oswit Canyon.

This is my very favorite trail in Palm Springs, because it’s both challenging but rewarding, and it’s always spectacular. Over the past few years, it’s rare to hike here and not see bighorn sheep, although you might have to keep your eyes peeled. (Other times, they walk right across the trail!)

Note: There’s no parking at the trailhead, so park on Mesquite close to Palm Canyon, near the Happy Traveler RV Park, and walk up the street until it dead-ends at the mountain.

Pushawalla Palms Loop, Coachella Valley Preserve • 4.6 miles

This trail is like traveling through an actual metaphor — you have to trudge through the desert to get to an oasis.

Multiple oases, to be accurate.

Follow a slender ridge along the top of a bluff before descending to the Pushawalla Palms grove on the desert floor. This is a cool oasis with water that has been brought to the surface from the San Andreas Fault.

Along the way back, you’ll pass through another collection of full-skirted palms and see even more water. Here we had a snack, lolled in the shade from the trees, and watched a flock of Gambel’s quail skitter about — a respite from the rest of the world.

52 Hikes, Part 1: Covid-safe family hiking in Palm Springs

January 31, 2021

I hike a lot, but I tend to stick to the same trails. I’m sure there’s a metaphor there.

So I set a goal to hike 52 different trails this year. Part of that was to force myself out of my comfort zone, but I think it’s also necessary for Covid times. Even though I can’t travel far, I still want to explore, I want to have new experiences, and I need to feel like I’m having an adventure.

It’s important for me to cultivate that for my 6-year-old son as well.

At the same time, we want to be safe and maintain distance from others, which is an additional bonus of 52 different hikes. Although I ticked some popular hikes off my list this month, I think this will push me to find some lesser-known trails and ultimately explore my area without encountering a lot of people.

Here’s how we did in January:

A few things to keep in mind:
• These hikes are family-friendly, meaning they were good for my family, but these trails are not necessarily accessible for things like strollers.
• I’m strategic about when and where I hike. Some of the popular trails get a heavy amount of traffic throughout the day, and I don’t feel comfortable on narrow paths with people who might not be wearing masks. Those are the trails we hike at dawn.
• Don’t take my distance as gospel. Hiking with a 6-year-old child involves a fair amount of wandering, so your mileage might vary.
• In each case, I’d recommend checking a site like AllTrails for current trail conditions. I always look the map to get an idea of the terrain, and I read the most recent comments for any pertinent info.
• Please wear a mask when you encounter others on the trail.

Bighorn overlook, Rancho Mirage • 1.3 miles

We kicked off the new year with a quick hike to watch the sun rise over the valley.

There’s easy-peasy parking at City Hall, and the hike is a mild, half-mile jaunt up to the overlook, which connects to other trails.

Bogert Trail, Palm Springs • 1.8 miles

Bogert offers a pretty overlook of south Palm Springs and leads to junctions with several other trails. We opted to do this as a moderate loop, with the first half on the mountain, the rest on residential streets.

Randall Henderson Trail, Palm Desert • 2.8 miles

This one is a favorite, and we’ve been doing it since E was just a wee little guy, so I think it’s appropriate for many ages.

The trailhead begins at Friends of the Desert Mountains. The visitor center and parking lot were closed, but parking is available across the street or along the side of the road. (It is a very busy road, though. Be careful.)

Oswit Canyon, Palm Springs • 3.2 miles

I love Oswit Canyon, and I’m grateful to everyone who worked hard to save it from becoming a housing development.

This hike is particularly great during covid times, because there’s not one particular trail that takes you back into the canyon. Basically everything is a trail, so you can really maintain distance from other hikers.

It’s also a gradual climb (you don’t even realize you’ve gained elevation until you look back), and it feels like a real escape from the rest of the world. Bighorn sheep sightings are not uncommon.

Fish Traps Archeological Site, Thermal • 1 mile

This wasn’t much of a hike, but wow, was it cool. We found petroglyphs (and modern graffiti, sadly), shells, broken pottery, and best of all — hundreds of fish traps! Yes, in the desert.

Back when ancient Lake Cahuilla was here, the Cahuilla Indians crafted these ingenious stone traps to catch fish. You can learn all about that here.

Goat Trails, Palm Springs • 3.2 miles

These trails go on forever and branch off into multiple other trails, and I don’t even remember which path we took. Only that we reached an old horse corral that I’ve never seen before, and it was in the middle of nowhere.

This area is heavily trafficked, but the first section is wide. Then once the trail begins to branch off, it’s easy to maintain distance from others.

Earl Henderson Trail, Palm Springs • 2.3 miles

When I first moved to Palm Springs, I ran this trail multiple times a week. Unlike a lot of other trails here, it’s hilly; not a relentless, glute-killing climb. It’s also in the shadow of the mountain, so it remains cool on hot mornings.

Mission Creek to Stone House, Mission Creek Preserve • 3.6 miles

Mission Creek is a dreamy place, often overlooked in favor of other parks and preserves, and that’s fine with me. My son could spend hours tossing rocks into the creek, floating leaves in the water, falling off logs into the mud.

The main path will take you along the creek, next to desert wetlands that are popular with birdwatchers, and past historic structures to the Stone House. (Believe it or not, this used to be a dude ranch/resort.)

The trail near the Stone House links up with the Pacific Crest Trail, so you can pull a Cheryl Strayed and just keep going if you want.

Hidden Palm Oasis, Thousand Palms • 3.8 miles

This hike’s name is no joke. You’re walking along a bleached, somewhat barren landscape, then you head down a slope and SURPRISE! A hidden palm oasis. And it’s glorious too. Cool, breezy, a nice stop for a snack.

We’ve also seen a lot of horned lizards on this hike, and we love horned lizards for being the most metal of all creatures. Here, I’ll let you see for yourself.

McCallum Trail, Thousand Palms • 3.4 miles

This out-and-back trail at the Coachella Valley Preserve will take you to a large pond that is fed by underground springs (the result of seismic activity along the San Andreas Fault). Kind of. Right now the pond is closed due to desert pupfish reintroduction.

We continued beyond the pond toward Vista Point and Moon Country trails, then decided to save Moon Country for another day.

I always get a thrill at the beginning of this hike, which starts by the now-closed visitor center. An elevated wooden platform leads you through a marshy oasis with small ponds and shaggy palm trees. It looks and feels otherworldly, like Ewoks might hop out of the trees.

Bump and Grind, Palm Desert • 4.3 miles

This moderate trail is great for some serious exercise, but it’s also uncomfortably crowded. I once saw an entire bachelorette party on the trail — Mardi Gras beads, water bottles with penis straws, bridal veils and satin sashes, the whole bit.

We hiked this loop at dawn, and it still had too many hikers for my taste. On the plus side, this trail branches off into some other excellent Palm Desert trails, it offers a picturesque view of the town, and it’s easy to find and centrally located.

The top is closed every year from February 1 to April 30 for Bighorn sheep lambing season. We lucked out and made this hike on Jan. 31, so we were able to do the full loop. My son struggled around the 1-mile mark, but we took it slow and made frequent stops until we made it.

The Year in Music: 2020 WTF Was That? Edition

December 28, 2020

I started this year like so many of us — by declaring that 2020 was going to be my year.

Narrator: It wasn’t.

Good things happened, bad things happened, and all of it seemed to be a slog. I’m sure I don’t have to tell you about it.

Overall I was scattered and unfocused, and that was the same story with the media I consumed too. I plowed through The Great, only to stop with two episodes to go. I left more books unfinished than read. (I was so proud of myself for starting War & Peace, and then I gave up like eight pages later.) There was a two-month dry spell where I didn’t listen to any music beyond my Quarantine & Chill mix.

That said, every December I write a post listing my favorite new songs, and I have fun doing it. So here we are!

Note: For the past couple years, I’ve mashed up my favorite books with my favorite songs for a year-end wrap-up extravaganza. But in 2020 I just can’t make that work. I’m not even going to try.

If you want to know some of my favorite books of 2020 (ones I DID finish!), you can check them out here. For my favorite tunes? Keep going.

The River • Goth Babe

I listened to this song in February on a flight to San Francisco, when the world felt ripe with promise. I was working on a travel piece for a magazine, and I was thrilled about the assignment, the editor, the fine hotels where I’d be staying, old friends, multi-course meals, sexy cocktails, all of it.

It was the same weekend the city declared a state of emergency due to a growing number of Covid-19 cases.

I polled my friends on Instagram: “Should I be concerned about coronavirus?”

“Nah, just wash your hands,” most of them said.

My story never ran. The magazine has now folded. And I am concerned about coronavirus. But this song was right there with me, teetering on the edge before we plunged into the deep end.

Color My Life • Chicano Batman

In the early days of lockdown, I was diligent about being not sober. This song accompanied me on those nights.

Woo! • Remi Wolf

I know I’m not the only one who experienced this pandemic as a rollercoaster. This song was for the high points — the giddy whoosh of days that didn’t seem so hard, the good writing days or the sunny beach days — when I couldn’t feel gravity holding me down.

Say So • Doja Cat

I had a little crush on someone this spring, and that person loved this song. I still get fluttery stomach feelings whenever I hear it.

Without You • Perfume Genius

A sweet and sad confection, like getting to the middle of a Blo-Pop.

Cheap Regrets • The Districts

Here’s more of that roller coaster I was talking about. But here we’re heading down the hill.

How Will I Rest in Peace If I’m Buried By a Highway • KennyHoopla

Right about the time I felt like a glass bottle full of screams, I heard this song for the first time and instantly added it to my Spotify queue. KennyHoopla electrifies me, like a modern Bloc Party but better.

Lovefool • twocolors

I just like a good cover, and this one makes me feel like I’m a cool person who goes to clubs and NOT someone who longs for bed at 8:45 (a.m.)

IN MY ROOM! • Tatiana Hazel

Obviously this song resonates.

I am so tired of my walls.

Interstellar Love • The Avalanches ft. Leon Bridges

This is maybe the best song that samples the Alan Parsons Project that I’ve heard all year. (Fine. It’s probably the only song this year that samples the Alan Parsons Project.)

Anyway, I love everything in this layered, space-age love song, including Leon Bridges, whose voice can transport me to other galaxies.

Loner • Dehd

I get a Siouxsie Sioux vibe from lead singer Emily Kempf. Then a reviewer said this song is a spiritual cousin to “Only the Lonely,” and now I can’t shake the ghost of Roy Orbison when I listen to it.

This song is an ode to longing and loneliness, two things I’ve become intimately acquainted with in 2020. Bonus points for a video shot in Joshua Tree.

Lancaster Nights • Charlie Burg

Charlie Burg took an immersion blender to a big pot of soul, indie pop, and R&B, and the result is a creamy, comforting soup of everything I like.

Don’t Start Now • Dua Lipa

This is by far the song I listened to the most this year, and it is a direct result of spending so much damn time on the Peloton. I liked Dua Lipa before, but then I started hearing her songs in every pop ride, and it’s like anything on high rotation — one day you realize you’re a fan and you don’t even know how it happened.

(However, I distinctly remember the live DJ ride in January when Cody played air cowbell during this song, and I was IN.)