Browsing Tag

animals

When monkeys attack

August 31, 2010

Behold, the noble and fierce monkey!

OK, actually that monkey is pretty damn sweet. His name is Romeo, and he was my constant companion during my two-week volunteer stint with the Inti Wara Yassi organization at Parque Machia.

Inti Wara Yassi runs three wildlife sanctuaries through Bolivia, and they provide a home for mistreated animals. There are some extreme cases of abuse — like a puma who was practically crippled by jumping through flaming hoops at an illegal circus — but the majority of their birds and animals have been seized from exotic pet black market.

I was assigned to Monkey Park, where more than 400 monkeys live independently, reintroduced into the jungle. They’re not quite wild, because we still feed them and they do have interaction with humans, but it’s as close to natural conditions as they’re ever going to get.

I worked nearly a 12-hour shift each day, starting with breakfast for the monkeys each morning. They eat bananas, of course, but they also receive a quinoa porridge that was supplemented with lots of monkey-riffic vitamins.

My job also included preparing monkey lunch and dinner, cleaning monkey cages and scrubbing monkey blankets — though most of the monkeys live without any captivity, we lock up the spider monkeys each night to keep them safe from poachers and thieves — and lots and lots of monkey cuddling.

Like with Martina here, who I think looks a little bit like an Amish dude.

And, of course, Romeo, oh Romeo!

Then, one week into my work, tragedy struck.

A hulking monkey, Renor, hopped onto my lap. He’s the number-two guy for the alpha monkey, so he’s larger and far stronger than most of the other capuchin monkeys. Imagine a big playground ball made of muscle and fur.

After about 15 minutes on my lap, he suddenly hopped off, grabbed my hands and chomped down on me. First he bit down on my right hand, but didn’t puncture the skin. He moved on to my left hand, where he made two deep fang holes into the thumb, then a couple more holes on the hand. At one point, I heard his tooth hit my bone.

During one of the bites, he pulled my hand away, creating a gash in my flesh. Then he very calmly looked me in the eye and lapped up the blood. He didn’t seem angry or spooked; he was simply gnawing on me.

He had a tight grip on both my hands, so I couldn’t do much except let him go all vampire on me. I was afraid that pulling away would cause him to react even more violently.

Another volunteer heard me curse and walked into Monkey Park to see what was going on. When he approached, Renor scampered off into the jungle. I headed for the clinic, where the sanctuary vet gave me a couple stitches. (I was told that the last time Renor bit someone, he gave the guy 72 stitches, so I got off lucky.)

Here’s how my wounds look one week later.

It was difficult to return to Moneky Park the next day.

If I had done something wrong and caused the monkey to bite, that would have been one thing. But Renor’s behavior was so erratic and random, I was scared something would happen again. Plus, at the same time, the alpha monkey was acting particularly aggressive and biting at least one volunteer per day.

I’m proud of myself for going back, though. Monkey Park offers volunteers a lot of quiet time, and I did a lot of thinking about what it means to work through fear, find confidence … and trust your monkeys again.

 

The story of Ez

August 13, 2010

Deborah and I became aquainted with the stray dog on the steps of Hotel Esmeralda, a small resort near our hostel in Coroico, Bolivia.

He was adorable, the color of caramel being stirred into chocolate, and had a sweet and lively personality. Every time we came near, he hopped to attention, tail erect, dipping his head for a scratch behind the ears.

We named him Ez — short for the Hotel Esmeralda — and we didn’t mind at all when he wanted to accompany us on a hike.

We thought Ez would join us for a little while, then turn back home. He, however, had other plans.

Ez stuck by us along the trail, guarding us against dropoff edges, protecting us, as loyal and true as Lassie.

Each time I wheezed up a hill, Ez patiently waited for me to arrive.

Though he did occasionally run ahead to cool off his hot paws.

Through coca fields and countryside, under waterfalls and patches of jungle, we walked and walked. And so did Ez.

We ended up several miles and many hours from where we started. Deborah and I agreed that if we got a taxi to bring us back to our hostel, we would only go if they would bring Ez too.

The road was dry and desolate, though, and no taxis could be found.

Our hiking boots started to drag as we headed back toward our hostel on the main road. Still no cab.

Eventually we realized there was no Ez either. We looked around, called his name, waited a few minutes. Still no sign of our devoted hiking companion.

We don’t know if Ez found a shortcut back to the hotel or just wanted to take a break. I like to think he stumbled across someone else who needed his company more than we did.

Wherever he is, I hope Ez found a grand adventure — and a sunny road home.

 

Monkeying around

August 1, 2010

As our boat approached the dock, a monkey launched himself off the shore and into my arms. Quite a warm welcome to La Isla de Los Manos, aka Monkey Island!

My greeter’s name was Mayo, an orphaned spider monkey and full-time resident at the primate sanctuary. He clung to me for an hour or so, nuzzling me, hugging me, even falling asleep against my shoulder.

Located on the Amazon River, Monkey Island is a haven for monkeys who would otherwise be sold in the exotic pet market. Most of them have been orphaned — their mothers killed by hunters — which explains why they look to others for affection.

The sanctuary is home to eight different species of monkeys. They don’t live in cages — they run around the island freely and independently — but they are still comfortable and curious around humans.

I’m always a little skeptical about wildlife sanctuaries, because I’ve seen too many that don’t act in the best interest of the animals. They exist simply for show or to suck money from real animal lovers.

But Monkey Island definitely appeared to be a place that does it right. Owner Gilberto Guerra clearly is passionate about monkeys and has created a place where they are treated with respect.

More than anything, my trip to Monkey Island reinforced my belief that all creatures crave love and deserve our kindness and affection.

 

My new best friend

July 26, 2010

Meet Charlie. He’s a capybara, the world’s largest rodent. Capybaras weigh about 100 pounds, have short, coarse hair and are semi-aquatic, earning them the nickname of “water pig.” (Coincidentally, that’s what the kids called me in elementary school.)

That said, Charlie is pretty damn cute — even if he could use a pedicure.

He lives at a lodge I visited in the Amazon jungle. His best friend is this dog, Pedro.

Guests at the lodge feed Charlie table scraps, like bread, bananas and potatos, all day long.

When he’s not sleeping, that is.

He quickly became my best friend — although I’m pretty sure that’s only because I had a pocket full of crackers.

Weird fact about capybaras: The Catholic Church decided that the capybara is a fish. So you can eat them during Lent, if that’s your thing.

 

Penguins in Paracas

July 22, 2010

Our only full day in Paracas was nearly a bust. The marine layer was as thick as potato soup, with only a few daring fishermen headed out toward the churning, choppy seas.

With our scheduled boat ride on an extended delay, The Husband and I sipped mug after mug of coffee at Juan Pablo, a local fish joint on the boardwalk. Finally, three hours later, we were given the green light.

Our speedboat whizzed over the turbulent waves directly to the Ballestas Islands, which are off limits to people. Even though the boat couldn’t dock there, the ride was as close as we were going to get to the multitude of marine birds and animals who call the islands home.

More than 150 different species of birds live there. As our boat approached, ribbons of birds surrounded the watercraft and practically ushered us in.

The sea lions, who were lounging about on the shore, snorted and waves as we spend past.

The Humboldt penguins, on the other hand, simply stared us down.

I couldn’t believe how many birds we saw during our quick tour. Take every bird you can possibly imagine, double that number, then multiply by 1,000.

See the black hill in the background? It’s all birds. Zillions of them.

Later we drove a small portion of the peninsula at the Paracas National Reserve. It’s an otherworldly place where desert plunges into ocean, and beach reaches for the sky.

I have a nagging feeling that in five years, Paracas is going to explode. It’s going to be overrun with tourists and tacky souvenir shops and expensive hotel chains. But in this moment, here and now, it’s just about perfect.