Browsing Tag

India

Made in India

March 14, 2011

I’ve seen so many of those TV programs where they show how things are made: Machines that squish cream into Twinkies, machines that roll paper around crayons, machines that put the precise number of M&Ms into every package.

So I tend to assume that everything is done by machine — and I’m always shocked when I discover honest-to-god handmade items.

Like incense. Did you know there’s a little girl sitting on a mat in a hallway, rolling incense right this very second? She rolls up to 4,000 sticks per day.

Click here for a quick video.

Once she’s done, the incense is dried on a rooftop, then another woman dips the sticks into various pots of oil and colored powder. From that point, it is packaged and put up for sale.

I also stopped by a beedi factory, which is where men make Indian cigarettes. Leaves from the tendu tree are chopped into rectangles, filled with tobacco flake, rolled and tied with a thin piece of pink string.

Each worker makes approximately three beedies in the time it takes for me to blink.

Thousands of cigarettes per day are rolled by these guys and exported all over Asia and the world.

And it all begins right here, in a dirty room with a rusty fan, crowded with men who sit on the floor all day long and take home a handful of rupees.

Thankfully, there is no machine for what they do.

 

Signs, signs everywhere there’s signs

March 14, 2011

I could seriously spend all day walking around India, photographing all the signs that crack me up.

But I don’t have all day — so here are just a few that struck my fancy.

 

I like how this one is so detailed.

 

Please stop with the fire crackers in church!

 

Yes. Definitely beware of white college students from Seattle.

 

Helpful fashion tips from the local police department.

 

For the last time, please take off those filthy shooes.

 

India’s churches: Holy moley!

March 9, 2011

Most people don’t realize that southern India is peppered with Christian churches. And by “most people,” I really mean “me.”

While I knew India was a unique stew of religions and philosophies, I somehow left Christianity out of the recipe. Thankfully, traveling around Goa has enlightened me — in just a week I’ve already seen enough stunning places of worship to rival the biggest European cathedrals.

Here’s the story: The Portuguese came into town a few hundred years ago, tore down a bunch of Indian temples and built churches there instead. No, that wasn’t very nice. But wow, do the Portuguese know how to build a church.

The structures are a peculiar marriage of simplicity and ornateness. Toothpaste white exteriors give way to elaborate carvings, excessive gilding and grandiose pulpits. The result is nothing short of spectacular.

This one was broken. (I didn’t do it!)

 

First day in India

March 6, 2011

Wow.

Mumbai was sensory overload. The sights! The smells! The potatoes!

All carbs aside, I’m glad it was my introduction to India, because this city and I immediately got off on the right foot. After a particularly trying month in Ethiopia, coming to India felt like I was finally waking up from a long, deep sleep.

The Artist Formerly Known as Bombay is a gorgeous place, saturated in color and fragrance. Garbage trucks are pink, the streets are hung with silky sari fabric in deep greens, blues and reds, statues are festooned with necklaces of orange marigolds, and purple boats float in the harbor.

The good streets are laced with the scent of fried potatoes, chili peppers and blooming flowers, while the bad streets smell like dog shit. But everything was so overwhelmingly whimsical and charming, it was easy to forgive anything less than wonderful.

Here are some photos from my first day in town.