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The Hammam Experience That Made Me Rethink Trust

November 26, 2024

The hammam I chose in Cappadocia was a random pick. I went with the one boasting the highest Google reviews, tucked away in the next town over. A taxi took me there, winding through the dusty, alien-like landscapes of the region. As we pulled up, I was excited about this quintessential Turkish experience.

But almost immediately, things started to feel … off.

A man greeted me and explained the various spa packages. I told him I just wanted a basic Turkish bath. Then this man hesitated and told me the therapist wasn’t available — he was in the hospital.

“Don’t worry,” he assured me. “We have another location just a couple of minutes away. I’ll take you.” My anxiety bristled. I voiced my concern, but he waved it off with a smile. “Trust me. It’s close.”

What would you do?

I don’t know why I agreed, but minutes later, we were in his truck, driving to the other spa. I paid up front, and the same man from the previous location discounted the price I had been quoted. He gave me a cup of tea and mentioned throwing in some complimentary treatments.

“No extras,” I insisted. “Just the bath.”

Inside the warmth of the hammam, my mind refused to settle. What was his angle? When the therapist moved on to the bonus treatments I’d explicitly declined—a body wrap and a face mask—my panic spiraled: Why the change of location? Is this a setup? Did he drug my tea?

By the time I finished and changed into my clothes, my suspicions were on high alert. And then came the clincher: the man offered to drive me back to my hotel. This is it, I thought. This is where the story turns dark.

In an unknown part of town, far from the taxi stands, I accepted the ride. I gripped my phone tightly, and turned on Google Maps to monitor every twist and turn. My anxiety ran wild: What if he takes a detour? What if he’s kidnapping me? When he slows down for a roundabout, should I jump out of the truck?

When we pulled up in front of my hotel, I braced myself for the shakedown. Instead, he pulled out his phone and opened Google Translate. My heart thudded as I waited for him to type. Finally, he handed it to me.

He had written: “You have such a high energy and always a smile on your face. You seem like a good person, and I am grateful for your visit. I only wish you the very best in life.”

So then I realized I’m an asshole.

I replayed the tape in my head and saw that at every turn, this man had shown kindness and hospitality. He discounted my fee, shared tea with me, ensured I got back safely, and even offered well-wishes. But I had been too busy scrutinizing every move to appreciate any of it.

Maybe it’s living in the U.S. that’s made me so wary of generosity. Or maybe the pandemic eroded my trust in people. Whatever the reason, I wasn’t always this cynical. I used to believe people are inherently good, and I want that part of me back.

What needs to change

I want to be clear: I’m not advocating for throwing caution to the wind or taking unnecessary risks. It’s important to stay aware, especially since I often travel solo. 

But I also recognize that somewhere along the way, a switch flipped for me. A few years ago, I shifted from being open-hearted to more fear-based in how I see the world. And my hammam experience made me realize how much that can hold me back.

It’s not just about staying safe; it’s about how anxiety has started to shape my experiences. It keeps me from enjoying the moment, from connecting with people, from having those authentic exchanges that make travel so meaningful. And if I’m not doing that — if I’m just moving through the world with my guard permanently up, anticipating the worst-case scenario — what’s the point?

I want to find my way back to a more balanced perspective, one that lets me stay mindful of risks but doesn’t let fear take the driver’s seat. To meet the world with curiosity instead of suspicion. That’s the part of me I want to nurture again.

In the years to come, I want to meet life with a softer heart, to lean into kindness instead of questioning it. To welcome the unknown—not with suspicion, but with openness. Because sometimes, the world really is as warm as a cup of tea offered by a stranger.

I will always remember this place

February 16, 2019

This is my view when my dad’s cancer diagnosis is confirmed. My body is rigid, pressed up against a frosty window, unable to move or else I’ll lose the phone signal. 

I don’t have much to say about it yet, but I can tell you he is hopeful, and he is angry. 

“I have things to do,” he says. “I don’t have time for this crap.” 

Long after the call ends, I keep my cheek against the window. It is cold, and it gives me something to feel other than scared. The drizzle is steady, and I hear the groan of snow as it is pelted with raindrops.

I should get back to writing, but first I need to listen to the snow’s complaints for a while.

Royally screwed: The moment I learned I would never be a princess

May 19, 2018

The scar is slick and smooth, a half-inch long plateau of white flesh on the back of my hand. It doesn’t tan, and it never flushes when the rest of my body gets hot.

The day my hand was wounded, I was a 7-year-old child in the Midwest. I was growing into a tangle of long limbs that defied the proportion of the rest of my squatty body, a clumsy girl with few friends. It was winter, and I was cold.

My father and I were in a station wagon, the kind with wood panels on the side and an 8-track player and everything. We were running errands, and our last stop was my dad’s office on a military base to pick up some paperwork. We eased into the parking lot of my dad’s building. Gray sooted snow framed the asphalt. Our car slid on a patch of black ice, and my dad let out a low whistle when we skidded to a stop.

“That was close,” he said. He laughed, and the air from his lungs puffed out in little clouds.

After we parked in front of his building, we both climbed out of the car. I struggled to even do this. My coat was too big for me, since my mom insisted on buying one size up. My feet slipped on the ice and my mittens fumbled with the car door, which was slick with melting snow. I pushed the door and — POW.

I inhaled sharply, without intention. I was stuck there, my hand caught in the door, pierced by a jagged sliver of car. My insides went metallic and cold, but my right hand felt suddenly bright and alive.

I spoke just three words out loud: “Dad. Daddy. Help.” I was calm enough to remember that in military families only fathers were allowed to yell.

“Come on, Margaret. Enough messing around.”

“Daddy,” I said. “My hand is in the door.”

The bulldog skin of his face sagged as he frowned. He stomped over to my side of the car and assessed the situation. Sure enough, my hand was shut inside the door. And the door was locked.

“Oh my God,” my father said. His expression softened.

He fumbled for his car keys with shaking hands, then dropped them. As he pawed for the keys on the ground, I grew impatient and used my free hand to tug at the impaled one.

The metal sliced through my veins as easy as a steak knife on soft butter. Blood squirted, leaving red blossoms on my light grey mitten, my coat, and the snow.

When my dad finally opened the door, I scrambled inside the car and pressed a wad of tissues against my hand.

“Don’t make a mess,” my father warned.

It didn’t take us long to get to the hospital, where doctors passed me around in a complicated emergency room do-si-do until I finally landed in front of a nurse. She prepared the needle and thread for my stitches, and she said it was weird to see a kid who didn’t cry. Then she sank into a metal chair opposite mine.

Cleaning the wound, she suddenly exclaimed, “Oh no!” She looked from my hand to my face, then back to my hand again.

“What?”

“Well, you know what they say about princesses, right?”

No. I had no idea. My princess knowledge was limited to a couple of Disney books and coverage of Princess Diana on “Good Morning America.”

“The thing is, when a prince marries a princess, he kisses her right hand,” the nurse said. Then she motioned to my right hand. In the pointed light of the sterile room, the wound looked especially mangled, like steak tartare.

“But now you can’t marry a prince, because you’ll always have a scar there,” she said. “You’ll never be a princess.”

There are very specific things that destroy young hearts: A helium balloon floating off into the sky. A sandcastle stolen by crashing waves. And a fucked-up nurse who tells a little girl that she’ll never be a princess.

I didn’t even know becoming a princess was an option, but I wanted it back as soon as it was gone.

My nurse tucked her head down and began the delicate work of sewing me together. Every stitch pulled the skin taut over my hand, reinforcing her words. You are not magnificent. You are not special. You will never have white horses and bouncy hair and a prince willing to slay your dragons. No matter who you become, no matter how you heal, you will always be scarred.

I cried then. It wasn’t so much about the pain, which I could bear. It was learning the very grown-up lesson that some things never disappear, they only fade.

Almost twenty years later … 

photo-1493799817216-4b57dda4229f

I fell for a man who swept me away in a bright and shiny luxury car. He drove me to other cities and took me to dinner at restaurants with linen napkins. He sent me love letters thick and fragrant with words that had never been given to me before. He held my hand, and his touch ignited my skin.

He was older, and his body had a hardness that was different from the boys I dated before him. He ate right, ordered his food steamed and without sauces, and he didn’t drink or smoke until I talked him into it. I made him do bad things. That’s what he told me.

I laughed at the idea that I was corrupting him, when he was clearly the one who wielded all the strength in our relationship. He was the one who could easily overpower me, could almost shatter me with the force of his weight against my hips, could dissolve me by going a week without a phone call.

This man and I clung to each other in parking lots, hotel rooms just off the highway, and abandoned buildings. He had a key to an old post office, and we often slept together on a sleeping bag underneath the “out-of-town” slot. Sometimes people still dropped letters in there, letters that weren’t going anywhere at all.

I never wore a watch, because time wasn’t something within my control. He was always late. His wife was always waiting. I always wanted more. Together we were greedy, stupid and gluttonous, like people who devour a cheesecake in just one sitting, then lean back and wonder, “What’ve I done?”

He often left before me, and I lingered to clean up our mess — to roll and stash the sleeping bag and make sure the lock on the post office door clicked behind me, to be certain we didn’t leave a trace. It never felt scandalous until that moment, jogging two blocks to the alley where I parked my car. Alone.

Sometimes, when the days stretched long in between our visits, I walked around the block where he lived. If I looked through the trees just right, I caught glimpses of him in the backyard, running and playing games with his young child. In the winter it was easier, no leaves on the trees to block my view of him and his daughter, bright neon blossoms against a backdrop of white snow.

One night I told him I had second thoughts. There was no fantasy left at that point, no illusions of happily ever after. I wasn’t looking for Prince Charming. I simply wanted a relationship between two individuals who could walk down the street together. No more wine-sticky kisses in a lightless post office.

“Shhh,” he said, stroking my hand. The skin of his thumb caught ever-so-slightly on the pucker of my scar. “Don’t be that way.”

Then he told me that I was magnificent. That I was special. And he held my hand until it disappeared into his.

“You’re my princess,” he said.

But I knew the truth.

2014: The year I was gutted

December 31, 2014

Photo by peddhapati.

Photo by peddhapati.

 

My 2014 can be summed up with one fact: It took five months for my c-section incision to heal, a wound that should have closed in less than 6 weeks.

I’m not saying this to inspire sympathy or to have a conversation about childbirth in America. Just know that when I say I spent a good deal of my year split wide open, that’s not hyperbole.

There was one moment when I was at home, wildly trying to juggle my crying newborn during a conference call for work. I was bouncing the baby on my hip, walking past the bathroom, and I happened to look in the mirror just as my robe fell open. I saw the lipstick red slash of my incision reflected back at me, and I thought, “I am so broken. So very, very broken.” The idea that I might never be fixed, that my life might never again have a sense of normalcy, was terrible and frightening.

Many days I wondered when I would be whole again; if I would be whole again. The unknown is such a vulnerable place to reside.

Don’t get me wrong — it wasn’t a bad year. I had a lot of achievements: I finished my master’s degree, and I hit a few professional goals. I gave birth to a wild, funny boy, who has wispy hair and gentle cow eyes. I have a husband who inspires me on a daily basis and friends who are generous with their love. Many days were filled with pancakes, dance parties when the baby wouldn’t sleep, sunshine, fairy lights, a new blue dress or two. It was actually an extraordinary year.

This face.

This face.

 

But underscoring all the good things was a new and overwhelming feeling of helplessness — it seemed every time I felt like I was in the driver’s seat, the “service engine” light popped on in the car.

So 2014 was challenging. This was a year of allowing buried things to surface and giving air to raw skin. Watching old wounds heal and waiting for scar tissue to form. Of making peace when things fell beyond my control. Of learning patience. Of being.

Here’s to achieving more balance in 2015.

 

Writing Process Blog Tour 2014

September 17, 2014

My friend Maggie Thach was kind enough to tag me in the Writing Process Blog Tour. You can check out her answers to these very same questions on Jim Ruland’s blog.

Here we go:

What are you working on?

Well, I gave birth just two months ago. So there’s the writing I did before Everest was born, and then there’s what I’ve been doing lately, and the Grand Canyon sits in between. I can’t even see the other side from here.

Pre-baby: A memoir. Essays. The occasional short story.

Post-baby: Sleep. Grocery lists. Little bits of this and that. Finding things that rhyme with “Go to sleep.”

I’d like to say I’m working on more, but finding an hour of quiet, hands-free time now is like spotting a unicorn in the wild. During those rare, lovely moments when Everest is napping, I have a decision to make: Do I sleep? Do some housework? Should I chip away at the marketing work that gives me a paycheck? Or write something creative that might result in payment eventually?

Housework usually wins, since I need clean dishes and laundry and such. The marketing work is a close second, because money is good. The creative work suffers the most.

Honestly, I should sleep more. I should be sleeping right now. I am so tired.

Also he should sleep more.

Also he should sleep more.

 

Why do you write what you do?

My mom. I was a writer before my mom was diagnosed with early-onset Alzheimer’s Disease, but her disease added a deeper purpose and a sense of urgency to my writing. It also changed how I live my life. Knowing that the disease might be genetic, I made a conscious decision to experience more while I still could and capture those moments on the page — and that’s pretty much the whole story of my memoir.

Also because Alzheimer’s steals so much from a person, I wanted to give my mom the dignity of being remembered. This book is my way of maintaining her presence in the world. I didn’t want her to be like a Monet in the attic, something beautiful that is never seen again.

 

How does your work differ from the other works in the some area/genre?

My story is not quite a travel memoir and not quite a grief memoir. It’s something in between, and it’s different because it’s mine.

It was devastating to witness the degeneration of my mom — as each day moved forward, she was erased a little more — but it was also transformative for me.  Watching her die helped me learn how to live. I didn’t want to put things off anymore. I had to see the world, love radically, and collect memories. And in the process, I wanted to honor my mom by living out her dreams.

So I spent one year backpacking to 18 countries around the world, hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, whitewater rafting down the Nile, praying at an ashram in India, tending to abused elephants in Thailand, volunteering at a monkey park in the jungles of Bolivia, fleeing the Arab Spring in Egypt. My trip was made mostly solo, and it involved quitting my longtime journalism career, losing all sense of security, and leaving my newlywed husband in California for the first year of our marriage. It also meant rediscovering home and what it means to be part of a family.

 

How does your writing process work?

I don’t have a process anymore. In the two months since Everest arrived, all red-faced and hollering, I’ve felt the itch to write but I haven’t had much luck actually doing it. Some of it is a time issue, since this kid is super needy and refuses to pull his own weight around here — but mostly I can’t string together coherent thoughts anymore. My brain is blurry, and my hormones are pinging around like crazy. So I’ve been keeping notes, lists and snippets of things on my iPhone, things to tackle later when the mom fog dissipates and my body returns to normal.

Also he is loud. Have I mentioned that? It’s hard to write when your ear drums are shattered.

Some days are hard.

Yep.

 

At first I felt guilty about not writing. Then I remembered an amazing conversation I had with Attica Locke, back when I was eleventy months pregnant and about to pop. She said to put the work on a shelf. Let it sit there for a few months, maybe more. Focus on taking care of my baby and taking care of myself. “The work will wait,” she said. “The baby won’t.”

So that’s where I reside now. I can only handle one thing at a time that is demanding to be fed. Right now it’s a human. Eventually it’ll be my book.

 

Continuing the blog tour: I tag Heather Scott Partington and Leigh Raper, both incredible writers and friends from my MFA program.

About Heather: Heather Scott Partington was raised in California’s central valley. She teaches high school English and lives in Elk Grove, California, with her husband and two kids. Her writing has appeared at The Rumpus, Bookslut, The Nervous Breakdown and the Los Angeles Review of Books. Heather holds an MFA in fiction from UC Riverside’s Palm Desert Campus.

About Leigh: Leigh Raper writes both fiction and non-fiction and sometimes posts on her blog about pop culture at leighraper.com. Her work has appeared at Spilt Infinitive and in the Best of Spilt Anthology and on The Coachella Review blog. She is slightly obsessed with television, rocks out to classic ’80s hair metal, and plays fetch with a wicked smart Labrador Retriever. She lives in the hamlet of Palisades, NY, on a rural postal route 12 miles north of New York City.