Browsing Tag

travel

A day in the life: Uganda

November 8, 2010

4 a.m. Wake up unable to breathe, almost like gauze has been wrapped around my face and neck. Panic. Then realize gauze has, in fact, been wrapped around my face and neck – I’m tangled in my mosquito net.

5 a.m. Wake up to a chorus of roosters, obviously competing for which early bird will get the worm.

7 a.m. Drunk guy in my dorm room falls off his bunk. At the very least, this has temporarily stopped the snoring.

8:14 a.m. Someone lifts my mosquito net and peers at my face. “Oh, sorry,” she says. “Wrong person.”

8:30 a.m. There’s a goat in my room.

8:42 a.m. Leave the dorm in search of a toilet. Find one, but it doesn’t flush.

8:59 a.m. Hooray! Found a toilet that flushes. This makes me feel very accomplished.

9:15 a.m. Breakfast time: A French press filled with incredibly rich Ugandan coffee and a sad packet of instant oatmeal.

10 a.m. Shower. Water is hot.

10: 02 a.m. Shower. Water is not hot.

10:04 a.m. Shower. Water is hot.

10:05 a.m. Shower. Water is not hot. I am beginning to see a trend here.

10:34 a.m. Wash my laundry in a sink using Dove soap and a fingernail brush. Vow to never complain about doing laundry once I return home.

11:05 a.m. I am speeding through downtown Kampala on a boda-boda (motorcycle), weaving in and out of chaotic traffic, soaring over potholes, my hair flying in the wind because helmets don’t exist here. If my dad could see me now, he would kill me.

11:10 a.m. Everywhere I go, kids are running after me, laughing, waving and shouting, “Mzungu! Mzungu!” (“White! White!”)

11:45 a.m. Find an electronics shop where I can buy a converter to adapt all my American cords for Ugandan plugs. The man tells me the price, and it seems very expensive. I try to do the conversion in my head, (2,280 shillings to the U.S. dollar), but the math is too much for my little brain and I want to cry. The shop is very frantic and a lot of people are crowding around me, yelling things. I hand over the money, and then later realize I got ripped off.

12:02 p.m. Meet Ivan, who owns a batik fabric shop. He asks where I’m from. “California,” I say. “Ah, the Governator,” he says, then launches into an Arnold  Schwarzenegger impersonation.

12:57 p.m. Because I got ripped off at the electronics store, I try to offset the cost by skimping on lunch. My feast consists of vegan jerky and an apple.

2:11 p.m. Wander around the market. Someone’s cell phone ringtone is the theme for “Beverly Hills 90210.”

3 p.m. Work. Write. Work. Send e-mails about potential volunteer work in Kenya and Ethiopia.

7:30 p.m. Dinner. Roasted pumpkin curry with rice for $3. Washed down with a cold Nile beer for $1.05. Amazing.

8 p.m. Beautiful Ugandan songs play on the radio. I ask what it is, and the reply is shocking: Country music! Next stop, Toby Keith.

10 p.m. Read, then it’s bedtime. I say goodnight to the goat and turn out the lights.

 

Kids of Kampala

November 7, 2010

I was lost in thought, walking through a quiet neighborhood in Kampala when I heard what has now become my name — Mzungu! Mzungu! (White! White!)

I looked down and saw this little cutie, desperately trying to get my attention. After a brief conversation, he asked me to take his photo.

Next we were joined by this sweet girl, who used two splintery wooden beams as crutches.

More of their friends showed up to see what the heck was going on.

Then they ran off to gather even more kids. I was apparently the greatest entertainment in town.

These two older boys — one missing an eye, the other one blind — were shy at first and asked if I could take their photo. When I raised the camera, they struck a too-cool-for-school pose.

This soon became a party, with all the kids giggling, smiling and hamming it up for me. Sometimes they were so excited, they danced around in circles and forgot to actually look at the camera.  They often ran up to me and stroked my skin, chanting a chorus of “Mzungu.”

As I continued my walk, the kids slowly trickled away, looking for fun elsewhere. Eventually it was just me and the blind child, rolling a tire down a dusty dirt road.

 

Streets of Johannesburg

November 6, 2010

I only knew Johannesburg from what I saw on the news as a little girl in the 1980s. Tanks rumbling through city streets, racial segregation and violence among the rubble.

It’s not fair, but those were the images that stuck with me, and it’s what I anticipated when I arrived in South Africa. Of course, the reality is a lot more complex and interesting than a 15-second clip on the nightly news. Not to mention, that was South Africa of the past, and the country has made great and wonderful strides toward a new future.

Unfortunately, many lovely Johannesburg homes are situated behind enormous walls, gates and coils of barbed wire, so I can’t really show you photos of those.

The city streets, however, are vibrant, colorful and electric — and welcoming to everyone.

 

Show me the bunny

November 6, 2010

This vegetarian has a confession to make — I love bunny chow.

Wait. Before you call PETA, you should know that no adorable, fluffy animals were harmed in the making of this post.

Bunny chow is a curry-licious South African specialty, invented in the coastal city of Durban. The area boasts a large community of Indian people, which makes for some of the most mouthwatering, spicy food this side of New Delhi.

Nobody knows exactly how bunny chow got its name — though there are a few theories — but rest assured, the dish doesn’t actually contain Peter Rabbit. It’s basically just curry served inside an enormous loaf of bread.

While you can get meaty versions of bunny chow, I can’t imagine why anyone would. The vegetable curries are laced with spice, rich with fragrance and heat — and eating them won’t make bunnies cry.

This isn’t the recipe for the bunny chow I had in Durban — the chef said it’s a closely guarded secret, probably because it was made of hellfire and Satan’s tears — but it’s close enough to give you an idea. A very mild idea.

YOU’LL NEED

1 butternut squash, diced

2 onions, diced

1 head cauliflower, cut into small pieces

2 tomatoes, diced

2 sweet potatoes, diced

5 potatoes, diced

1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

3-4 red or green chilies, depending on how hot you like it

1 T. chili oil

2 T. garlic, minced

2 curry or basil leaves, chopped

2 t. curry powder (or more, depending on taste)

1 T. canola oil

1 T. salt

2 cups water

2 loaves of bread

WHAT TO DO

In a pot, heat the oil. Add the garlic, chili and onions. Fry for a few minutes, until onions turn slightly translucent.

Add the tomatoes and fry for three more minutes.

Add the potatoes, squash, cauliflower and sweet potatoes. Add water and basil/curry leaves. Make sure all veggies are submerged under water.

Add the curry powder and salt to taste.

When the water boils, turn it on a low heat and let simmer for 90 minutes, stirring occasionally.

If the curry is still wastery after 90 minutes, mash some of the potatoes and stir. Curry should have a stew-like consistency.

Cut loaves of bread in half. From each half loaf, carve out the middle, leaving some bread on the bottom to form a bowl.

Fill the hole with curry and serve with the portion of bread that was removed.

No bread? Just serve the curry with rice.

Serves four very hungry people.

 

Too honest

November 1, 2010

Us: Can we settle up our bill now?

Hostel owner: Yes. But it might not be accurate because I’m pretty high right now.