The best thing about Buenos Aires is how you never have to make any plans. Just walk outside and see where the day will take you.
And so it was yesterday with my visit to Teatro Colon, considered to be one of the top five opera houses in the world — and totally not my intended destination for a Monday afternoon.
But I was in the neighborhood, and I heard that the theater has incredible tours, so I popped into the front office to inquire.
ME: Hello. Do you have tours?
FRONT DESK GUY: No tours. We’re closed.
ME: Oh. Are you open tomorrow.
FDG: No tour tomorrow. Closed.
ME: Do you ever give tours?
FDG: No.
Until that moment when I was turned away, I didn’t realize just how much I wanted to see the inside of the place — and now it seemed like I was fresh out of luck. Beyond buying an expensive ticket to a fancy opera, the tour was my only way to get inside the stunning 1908 building.
On a whim I walked down the alley on the side of the building where I saw a security guard.
ME: Hey, are there any tours of this building?
SECURITY GUY: No tour, but go inside. They speak English.
He nudged me toward an open door. I figured at the very least I’d get to see the lobby, so I played along and walked inside.
There was a woman at a box office desk.
ME: Hola! Do you have any tours?
LADY: No. No tours. Not until spring, when we have more visitors.
ME: Oh. That’s a shame. I really wanted to see the place.
LADY: Sorry. Oh, but I could give you free tickets to this afternoon’s show. Do you want that?
ME: Absolutely!
And that’s how I found myself at the Concierto de Primavera inside a massive and gorgeous theater. For free.
The show wasn’t a full opera, so no buxom ladies in Viking helmets, sadly.
What I did get was a masterful orchestra playing selections from a variety of operas, accompanied by incredible soloists. Baritone Fabian Veloz sang a piece from La Traviata that was a gift to my ears. An oboe, playing the melancholy “Oblivion” by Astor Piazzolla, made me weep. And during the big Brahms finale, I leapt to my feet and clapped until my hands were red and raw.
For two flawless hours, I was inside one of those perfect travel moments — where it feels like the whole world is working in your favor and every dream can come true.
No Comments